We’re Back in Germany

YiB-5It is good to be back in Germany. This is our seventh visit to Germany and we have never been disappointed in our travels through this country. While we have only added two new breweries to our list so far, it hasn’t been for a lack of trying.

We arrived Friday late morning after two uneventful flights. Our plan was to go to a brewery in Ochsenfurt, have some lunch and then head on to our final destination of the day. We found the brewery just fine but they didn’t have any attached restaurant like I thought they did. Undaunted, we walked into town and had lunch at a small restaurant and did get to enjoy the brewery’s beers. Unfortunately, the brewery doesn’t make the list.

We spent the first night in a small town called Neuhaus at Hotel Zum Löwenbräu which is a brewery hotel. The brewery hotel is one of mankind’s greatest inventions and we have found the ones in Germany to be the nicest and least expensive places to stay. Plus, you’re guaranteed good German food and beer just a few paces from your room.

While we were enjoying dinner at the hotel on Friday night, we were wondering where all the people were. Neuhaus was a small town and the place we were staying was the only restaurant in town. On our walk the next morning, we discovered the Löwenbräu Felsenkeller, their beer garden in the the forest. It looked really cool and we figured that was where everyone was the previous evening. So, if you are ever in Neuhaus, check out the Felsenkeller.

After our walk on Saturday morning, we decided to head into Bamberg to get two of the breweries that we had missed last year. Admittedly, I could have done a bit more research, but I assumed that if we get there at noon, everything would be fine. Wrong. One didn’t open until 2pm and the other 5pm. And what we thought was funny was that on Sunday, both opened at 11am.

Denied beers in Bamberg, we headed down to Erlangen to get settled before the Bergkirchweih on Saturday night. Up the street from our hotel is the Kitzmann brewery and unlike every other place we had been to that day, it opens at 10am. So at 3pm, we enjoyed the first beers of the day and the requisite German food consisting mainly of pork.

Then it was on to the Bergkirchweih Beer Festival. The woman at the hotel desk gave us a good luck warning when we told her we were in Erlangen for the festival. Last year, we went on the last weekend. Yesterday it was the first weekend. And as you can probably guess, it was a different experience. On the last weekend, the Berg is pretty mellow; the locals are probably beer-ed out, granted a concept hard to attach to Germans.

However, the locals were going all out yesterday. And it helped that the weather was perfect; between 75 and 80 degrees.

We arrived around 5pm and easily found a table and got our first liter; we were sharing at first since it was going to be a long evening.

After talking with a German family from Bayreuth who had joined us at our table, we walked around and reminisced about the places we were just 11 months ago. We sat here… that’s the tent where the mean waitress gave us the over-salted radish… there is the oxen roasting place… It’s odd to be nostalgic about such recent events but it was on our trip last June that we embarked on our beergeek.TV adventure. So, it was interesting to be back, remembering how green we were less than a year ago.

While the festival was manageable during daylight, once it got dark, the throngs arrived and the Berg became this one big mass of drunken people.

Merideth did engage in that German tradition of drinking liters of beer and going on fast, whirling carnival rides. Someone did puke on Merideth’s ride, but it wasn’t her.

Tomorrow is Mother’s Day, so I assume the Berg is going to be mellow… at least until the sun sets.

 

New beergeek.TV Episode – Seattle

YiB-4“Seattle Revisted” is the latest Year in Beer episode of One Pint at a Time.

We’ll be the first to admit that we were skeptical of Seattle’s lofty beer reputation. We’ll also admit that it was mainly due to a lack of knowledge about the extent of their beer scene.

We knew we needed to blaze a non-tourist path to really experience Seattle’s beer culture. That’s why we enlisted the help of our friend, Chris Devlin, to show us a local’s perspective.

For all the episodes of One Pint at a Time go to beergeekTV.

The Year in Beer May Preview – Franconia

YiB-5The Year in Beer gets cranked up a notch as we make our first of five trips to Europe this year. The May edition of the YiB visits the Franconia area of Germany, one of the richest beer brewing regions in the world. And to top that off, we will finish up with a YiB side trip with our friends Ute and Wolfgang, catching three Flogging Molly shows on successive nights.

Not having the time to explain the geopolitical history of Franconia, for the sake of this preview just think of it as an area that stretches across several German states including northern Bavaria. Sprinkled throughout the region are some 300 breweries making some of the best beer in the world. And you wonder why we keep going back?

We will get 12-15 new breweries which puts both of us within striking distance of 400 breweries. [For those having nothing to do at the end of July, I anticipate both us reaching the milestone in Portland.]

YiB-5Our trip begins with a return to the second largest beer festival in Germany, the Bergkirchweih Beer Festival in Erlangen. We had a such a good time last year at “the Berg” we wanted to go back. And with almost a year of video experience behind us now, maybe we will be able to do it a bit more justice.

We will also be returning to Bamberg to hit two of the breweries we missed last year. And maybe we can even find the ‘secret brewery’ that eluded us in 2007.

And we finish up the Franconian portion of the trip with a pilgrimage to Rodental, the home of the Hummel figurine factory.

We will also introduce you to one of the greatest inventions known to mankind; the brewery-hotel. While there are a few here and there in North America, there are hundreds of them in Germany.

Usually family-owned, we have stayed at a number of the brewery-hotels and find them to be the nicest, cleanest and least expensive accommodations in Germany. And since they make their own beer there isn’t too far to stumble from the biergarten or braustubl to your room. We will be staying at two of them during the trip.

After our whirlwind tour of Franconia we have another YiB side trip, meeting up with Ute and Wolfgang in Cologne for the first of three Flogging Molly shows on successive nights. Besides being huge FM fans, we are also huge fans of Kolsch, the native beer of Cologne. And Ute says she knows a place where we can get pints. The little glasses are cute but it is only two gulps for me. It gets annoying when you have to reorder every other minute.

YiB-5The second show is in Munich where we are very excited to show our German friends our favorite haunts in that great city. Merideth is particularly excited to bring Wolfie to Weisses Brauhaus where the matronly waitresses can sometimes get a bit snarkey. I think we are also going to try to go to the brewpub at Munich airport.

Finally, the last show is in Vienna… our first visit to this historic city. No time to sightsee though… there are two brewpubs to hit plus the Flogging Molly show.

All and all, a beer filled trip worthy of the Year in Beer.

On an administrative note, we have made every effort to blog on each day of our YiB trips but this might come to an end. I am just not sure of our Internet access but we will make every effort to keep up our practice of posting daily.

Besting Our Goals in Seattle

I am not talking enlightenment here, but rather the lofty goals we set out for ourselves for our trip to Seattle: eight new breweries and all the good beer bars we could get to in four days. With the help of our friend Chris Devlin, I am happy to report that we exceeded what we set out to do.

YiB-4Saturday dawned rainy and cold, with me depressed because I was back wearing dreaded pants instead of my comfy shorts. Merideth and I met up with Chris and his significant other Francesca and searched out an antidote for my woe. Beer you say? No… chocolate.

The Theo chocolate factory is not just your average, run-of-mill, award-winning, organic, fair trade chocolate company… it is also housed in the original Redhook Brewery in the Fremont district of Seattle. They have free samples, too, so after a few minutes of trying an interesting array of chocolate nibbles, I was ready to face the rest of the day.

And the rest of the day began just across the street at the world-famous Brouwer’s Cafe.

Brouwer’s is on many ‘top 10’ lists of best beer bars in the United States and it is easy to see why. An incredible draft and bottle selection awaits the thirsty customer. And they have the cool glass washer thingy too.

Following my rule to always drink local brew when I can, I stuck with the Washington beers on the menu. I ended up drinking two cask ales: Hop Diggity from Port Townsend and Bosun’s Black Porter from Maritime Pacific and two keg beers: Big Daddy’s ESB from Silver City and Snoqualmie’s Spring Fever Belgian-style Grand Cru.

I don’t want to gush on about Brouwer’s, but I have to say, I feel pretty fortunate to have had a pint at some of the best beer bars in the States over the last few months… Toronado, Monk’s, Publick House and now Brouwer’s.

Though the rain had finally stopped, it was still chilly as we walked from Brouwer’s down to Hales.

I have fond memories of our first visit to Hales ten years ago, but I have to admit that we were a bit disappointed in the beers this time around. Not that they were bad, they just lacked any ‘wow’ factor.

From Hales, we walked down to Maritime Pacific Brewing and enjoyed a few standout beers such as the Flagship Red Alt Ale and the Nightwatch Dark Amber.

But what really stood out was two items on the food menu. Lil Mahis are fish versions of the famous slider burgers and were to die for. And the deep fried pickles were also out of this world.

Before we hit the last brewery of the trip, we had a bit of business to take care of at Bottleworks, Brouwer’s Cafe’s bottle shop. Namely, we had to pick up the last few beers for our beer tasting next weekend.

The last brewery of the trip was Stix, located on the shores of Lake Union. There is really nothing to say about Stix, except that they brewed their last batch of beer yesterday. The equipment is already sold and the brewer has a new job somewhere else. So, we got there in the nick of time to be able to count it on the list. Oh… Chris D beat me two games to one in pool… and we also got to ride the S.L.U.T.

We finished the day downtown at the Collins Pub basking in the glory of all that we had accomplished over the last four days. We visited twelve breweries- nine of which were new for us – and over a half-dozen beer bars.

I’ll admit that I came to Seattle with a certain amount of skepticism regarding it’s lofty beer reputation, but I am now somewhat a convert. I have to thank Chris D for helping me see the light.

Click here to view all the images of our Seattle adventure.

 

Seeking Enlightenment in Seattle

YiB-4Buddha spent his life contemplating questions with the aim of achieving true enlightenment. And, in a sense, you could say that is the quest Chris and I have embarked upon.

Friday was certainly an adventure, as we explored parts of Seattle far and wide. We started easily enough at Pike Place Market. Watching, waiting for the fish mongers to throw the fish and braving the touristy crowd through the market. Not yet finding our enlightenment, we decided to continue our quest at Pike Pub and Brewery. Pike’s was a good example of how one should continually revisit places gone before. The beer was much better than we had remembered. While it didn’t lead us to nirvana, it kept us on the path.

We decided that maybe we should give up our control and allow ourselves to be guided by our beer guru Chris Devlin. We met him at Pike and headed to outlying areas of Seattle and to Georgetown Brewing.

YiB-4Not a brewpub, but a simple warehouse with a small retail space. Chris thought their beer was the best of the trip thus far. I would have to agree. They do four beers (pilsner, pale ale, red, & porter), all very well. The major downside was that they only do kegs and growlers, no bottles. Despite the most excellent beer, this couldn’t possibly be the end of the quest. I still didn’t feel that I had reached a state of utter bliss. Plus, I don’t think Buddha ever stopped. He continued to contemplate life’s big questions throughout his whole life.

Inspired by Buddha’s life long search, we continued on a bus ride through the warehouses of south Seattle. In case we were getting too comfortable in that area, Chris D helped us travel to an even more remote spot. Was that his way of helping us to look inward and continue our journey of personal exploration? No, we just took the bus too far and had to wait for the next one to take us back. It was a little iffy there for a minute, but isn’t that what the search for enlightenment is all about, being happy with where you are in your current circumstances and learning whatever lesson you can form the experience? Luckily we didn’t have to wait for the bus too long and soon enough we were back to feeling more confident that we were on the right path.

YiB-4A few more moments of doubt, but we eventually found ourselves at Laughing Buddha Brewing Company. There we learned two things:

1) The world is a small place where everyone is connected – we met two people who lived in Monterey for 40 years before moving to Sacramento recently.

2) The universe doesn’t let anything die, just take on a new incarnation – Laughing Buddha’s brewing equipment was purchased from San Andreas Brewing in Hollister… one of favorites from our early days of beer travel.

Laughing Buddha slogan is “Beer. Where East Meets West” and they had two beers to try. A brown made with pandan leaf and palm sugar. A little sweet and very tasty. And they had an Asian style lager. Also very refreshing. They have in the works to make a ginger pale ale made with two kinds of ginger. We’ll have to get Chris D to send us some when it comes out because we are reasonably sure that we will not be getting it on the Monterey Peninsula.

YiB-4We pressed on and went around the corner to Baron Brewing. I was lovin’ it because they brew only German style lagers. Surely this had to be the enlightenment I was looking for. We chatted with a group of locals, who seemed to be regulars at the cozy tasting room. Luckily, they had bottles, so we bought the schwarzbier.

Every good spiritual journey needs to include food to keep you going, so we hit the road again and ate dinner at Georgetown Liquor Company. An excellent vegetarian place with an equally awesome beer selection. We then took the bus back downtown where we started the day.

We ended our night with a final beer at The Stumbling Monk. I’m not sure that we found nirvana yesterday, but if this is what the path to enlightenment consists of, then I am definitely continuing the quest.

Click here to view all the images of our Seattle adventure.