St. Brigid & Me

One of the many holy wells in Ireland dedicated to St. BrigidSince we are in Ireland right now, I have been thinking more than ever about St. Brigid. Something I haven’t talked about much is my connection with one of the most beloved saints in Ireland. Known as ‘the Mary of the Gael’, St. Brigid is known for a great many things, including her generosity, her compassion toward the poor, and her ability to turn bathwater to beer.

When I was in the 10th grade, I went through the necessary hoops to become a confirmed Catholic. The saint name I chose was Brigid. I even added it to my name at my high school graduation. I don’t remember why exactly I took that name, but I do remember looking through a book to peruse my choices. Little did I know at the time, the depth to which fate would have led me to choose St. Brigid.

The first connection is the love affair I would eventually develop with Ireland. When I was younger, I had no concept of travel. No one in my family ever traveled abroad and it was difficult for me to think much beyond California, even. But, as you know, Ireland is one of our favorite countries to visit. As a sea faring girl (my name means protector of the sea and I grew up on the beaches of Carmel), the west coast of Ireland calls to me. In the rugged beauty and harsh existence, I find comfort and coziness. To me, the rough Atlantic Sea sounds of music as it hits the rocky shores.

Next, Brigid is known to have been generous and compassionate toward the poor and disenfranchised of her day. A social worker of sorts. This included providing staples to the poor and care to the sick. One of the primary myths (or miracles, depending on how you view it) associated  with St. Brigid is how Ireland became the Emerald Isle. The story goes that Brigid approached a miserly king to request aid to the poor. He sarcastically responded to her that he would provide as much as her green mantle (cloak) could cover. Thinking that the cloak would barely cover the few feet in front of her, St. Brigid threw her mantle out and it miraculously spread throughout the entire countryside, cloaking the land in green. This, of course, came as a great shock to the king. As a social worker, I find these stories of her generosity and compassion very inspiring.

Most recently, I have become aware of St. Brigid’s miracle of beer. She worked in a leper colony and when the people of the colony implored her for beer to drink, she found there to be none. By the sheer power of her blessing, she turned water meant for bathing into beer for all to drink. She was also said to have turned her own dirty bathwater into beer for clerics visiting her monastery to drink. Another story endearing her to beer drinkers is that she was reported to supply 18 churches from just one barrel of beer.

A poem attributed to St. Brigid and often quoted by beer lovers, states ‘I would like a great lake of beer for the king of kings; I would like the people of heaven to be drinking it through time eternal.’

What more could a beer loving social worker aspire to be than a woman who wishes upon all the people of the world, rich and poor, sick and well, a steady supply of beer.

 

Toodlin’ in Doolin

YiB-6Saturday, Chris and I drove to Doolin, County Clare. Doolin might be our favorite place in all of Ireland. A certain travel personality, whose initials are ‘RS’, describes it as ‘touristy’, but we decided that “international” is a better word for it. There are a lot of tourists, but not the usual ‘eat at McDonalds while in Europe’ kind. People from all over the world come to Doolin for the hiking, biking and other adventuresome things to do in the West of Ireland. Of course we met a few cool people while there over the weekend.

Saturday evening, we started out at Gus O’Connors, probably the most popular pub in Doolin and our sentimental favorite. We intended to play some Scrabble, have a few pints, and enjoy the Euro 2008 match between Russia and the Netherlands. However, the manager decided not to show the match because it would interfere with the dinner crowd. We were actually going to do both, eat and drink, but alas, we headed to McDermott’s pub so that we could watch the game.

McDermott’s was actually the suggestion of Maureen, one of the bartenders at Gus O’Connors, who we see every time we go to Doolin. I finally decided to ask her how long she had worked there. She tried to tell me that it was her third night. I told her that I knew that was wrong because we had been coming for years and she eventually admitted that Chris looked familiar. More incredible than saying Chris looked familiar was that she has worked at Gus O’Connors for 28 years!!!

We had a great time at McDermott’s watching the game, eating and drinking. We shared a table with a couple from the Czech Republic. They have been living and working in Cork for three years. We explained our difficulty with the Czech language and we all agreed that our experiences in Czech would be better if we had some native speakers to help us out. They may be moving back to Czech in the future, so we exchanged e-mail addresses just in case we plan another trip there.

YiB-6Saturday, a winter-type storm hit the area. A steady gale force wind blew all night and the rain came down in buckets! Maureen said it was hardest she had ever seen it rain there.

Luckily, we made it in and out of the pubs in between bursts and we never got caught in it. However, a local gift shop was not so lucky and got flooded. It is located at the bottom of a slope. The rain was out of control and everything washed down the hill and into the store. The fire brigade even came to pump out the water. They had not yet reopened when we left Doolin on Monday.

Sunday brought more unsettled weather but to make the day more of a struggle, we seemed to run into eejits wherever we turned.

At breakfast, we heard the Irish guide for a group of Americans say that the ferry ride out to the Aran Islands would not be too rough and not to worry. I believe the quote was something about a car ride would be bumpier. Okay, the one time we went out to the Aran Islands, the crew handed out barf bags because there was a storm raging. With few exceptions, all passengers utilized these nifty clear plastic bags and that day was not nearly as stormy as Sunday’s weather.  Unfortunately, we didn’t get a follow up on how the ferry ride scored on the barf-o-meter, but my guess is that it was high. The guide’s comment led one American woman to state, “It’s a sea storm.” Well, yea, you’re on an island!

YiB-6

We survived breakfast and headed out to Biddy Early Brewery in Inagh to drink some beer and to do some filming.

On our way to Biddy Early, we made a quick stop and tried to do something about the weather. All over Ireland, there are holy wells where people wish for everything from being cured of a disease to wealth and prosperity. There is one such well, dedicated to St. Brigit, a few minutes from Doolin. We did give an offering to St. Brigit for good weather, so we’ll see if she shines on us.

YiB-6When we got to Biddy Early, three Irish lads were sitting at the bar. These guys proceeded to play video clips on their phone and play a selection of music including “Eye of the Tiger” multiple times at loud volume. And the best part, they did it while drinking a Baileys, a cider, and the third guy was drinking Budweiser with a straw.  And they burped loudly, too.  Oh yeah, and the ‘Budweiser with a straw guy’ sprayed air freshener into his mouth. Some would call it local color but we thought they were local eejits.

We kept hoping they would leave, but alas, they waited us out and we surrendered and left. Unfortunately that was one of the worst experiences I have had at a pub. We didn’t get any filming done, which is not too much a loss since the owners are trying to sell the place and it’s in a bit of flux.

YiB-6Sunday night, our last night in Doolin, ended on a good note. Back at Gus O’Connors, they decided to play Sunday night’s football match between Spain and Italy. We took our seats at the bar and spent four hours watching football, listening to Irish music and enjoying conversations with the other punters.

For those interested in our little ‘nitro challenge’, we have already amassed 23 pints of nitro beer. Of course, I am responsible for a lion’s share of these, since Chris is drinking the bottled Stout wherever he can find it.

Sunday night, the weather seemed to be clearing up a bit and we were hopeful that the weather would continue to improve as we traveled south to Cork on Monday.

 

From beergeek to beerdo

Yesterday we started our first North Bay beer excursion in 10 years, and so far it has not disappointed. We took the 3 hour drive up to Fairfax for our first stop, Iron Springs. You may be familiar with their beer ambulance that boasts,”Saving lives one beer at a time”.

Unfortunately, at this time, it may be Iron Springs itself that needs saving. They are having landlord issues, including a huge rent increase. My understanding is that they have no where else to go and may need to close. That would be a big loss, especially because the beer is tasty, the staff friendly, and the food great.

While at Iron Springs, we met up with fellow Aleuminati member, Rob. He had lots of information on the North Bay beer scene and had great insight into the craft beer industry. You can check out Rob’s blog Pfiff!. Thanks to directions from Rob, we then took the scenic route on to Petaluma and our second brewery of the trip, Lagunitas.

It’s amazing that this was our first trip to Lagunitas. We hung out in their loft overlooking the brewery, which the bartender affectionately called the “man den”. It felt like hanging out in someone’s attic. That’s me lounging, drinking Censored while reading Nancy Drew. The bartender went on to tell us that she went to high school with Winona Horowitz, better known as Winona Ryder. Our friendly bartender said that she should have known that Winona was destined to do big things, as she had a green mohawk in high school. Where is Winona these days anyway? Maybe one of you out there has an update for me…

One of the things that was especially nice about Lagunitas is that they serve you beer before the tour. As you can imagine, we skipped out after the beer. Oh yea, another highlight of Lagunitas is that it was my 390th brewery…Go me!

Next we went to Bear Republic in Healdsburg. This was a must for us, because our friend Matt Venzke (Beer Drinker of the Year) went there a few months ago and autographed his picture for them. Matt told us it was behind the bar, so we had to see for ourselves! Sure enough, the bartender Ryan proudly showed it to us. It’s even laminated! We had great fun with his picture, but it made us miss him and wish that he was there drinking a Racer 5 with us.

We ended our Friday evening at Russian River in Santa Rosa. We were last at Russian River many years ago when it was still located at Korbel. If you haven’t been, you need to go. It’s an ultra-hip place (but not douchey), so wear your coolest rockabilly outfit. When you go, make sure that you have lots of time. It isn’t a place that you can run in and out of quickly.

A weird thing happened at RR…when we walked in looking for a place to sit, one of the bartenders said “Hi beergeeks”. Chris had a beergeek shirt on (go figure) with a small logo and I had my sweatshirt on concealing my beergeek shirt. I’m not really sure, but I would like to think that he recognized us. Who knows? He did mention that the video taping of Chris walking in the door was a dead giveaway. The place was busy, so I’m not even sure how he saw all that. Then he brought us each a sample of Pliny. Wow, life is good!

We met some nice people at RR, including a guy named Mitch. He lives about two blocks from the festival site, so today we are parking at his house and walking over. We were even invited to his post-festival BBQ. Oh, and he has two wieners, although they are standards (45 pounds!) and long hairs. Through Mitch, we met Mark, who had the best beer word I have heard in a while…beerdo. You know, instead of weirdo? Maybe I’ll petition Chris to change our site to the thebeerdo.com.

 

Year in Beer – Ireland Preview

YiB-6The time around summer solstice might be the best time to visit the Emerald Isle. “Why?”, you ask?

Well, in June, it doesn’t get dark in Ireland until well past 10pm, meaning there are more daylight hours to drink beer. And believe me, daylight makes a huge difference in your beer drinking stamina. Check out the picture. Taken without a flash, the time was approximately 10pm.

This Year in Beer trip is the follow up to our Dublin episode. In that episode of One Pint at a Time, we showed you some of our favorite places in the Irish capitol. For the YiB, we will show some of our favorites in the rest of Ireland… well, as much of ‘the rest’ that we can accomplish 8 days.

YiB-6And we have a special theme for the trip… “Nitro-Free Ireland”. Chris got the idea for this from a discussion on the Irish Craft Brewer website. There is a practice in parts of Ireland of drinking room temperature pint bottles of Guinness. Yes… room temperature – not cellar temperature – the bottles of Guinness sit on the shelf behind the bar. People believe this is the true original way to drink Guinness. To make the trip more interesting, we will attempt to forgo all nitro-poured beers, which will be easier for Chris than me because I love anything on nitro. We will donate $5 for every nitro pint we drink to the Angel Project in Carmel Valley. They put together a “store” with everything from food items to clothes to toys to help needy Carmel Valley families out at Christmas.

On the trip, we will hopefully visit the following breweries:

  • Galway Hooker in Roscommon (new for us)
  • Biddy Early in Inagh
  • Franciscan Well in Cork
  • Beamish in Cork (new for us)
  • Carlow Brewing in Carlow
  • Macreddin Brewery in Macreddin Village
  • Porterhouse in Dublin
  • Messrs Maguire in Dublin (Chris is going to wear shorts, so we hope that they let him in. More on that story another time.)

While only two of the breweries are new, we haven’t been to Franciscan Well and Carlow Brewing in almost 10 years. It will be interesting to see how these ‘old time’ Irish craft brewers have changed over the years.

YiB-6On top of the breweries, we will also show you some of our favorite pubs across the country.

Gus O’Connor’s in Doolin is famous for Irish music and is probably our favorite pub in all of Ireland.

The pub to the right – which not even Chris can remember the name – is in West Cork and might have the best view of any pub in the country. Plus, you get to carry your pints across a busy road to the outside seating area.

Other highlights will include:

  • Visiting the town of Dripsey, which boasts the world’s shortest St. Patrick’s Day parade. The parade goes between the only two pubs in the village and measures a lengthy 26 yards. If we can manage the whole distance, we will have a pint in both pubs.
  • Visiting a dolmen with the largest capstone in Ireland, weighing in at 100 tons.
  • Us doing goofy tourist stuff… well, Chris doing goofy touristy stuff.

We will be spending one day in Dublin before we come home. And like the creatures of habit we are, we will be going to the same places we showed you in December. OK… maybe Chris will find one new pub to try and maybe we’ll show you our favorite music pub… maybe. Also, Boyzone is playing. We never miss an opportunity to see Boyzone.

Mother’s Day Beer Festival

YiB-5In my recent Top 10 blog, I mentioned that I liked the Bergkirchweih Beer Festival better than Oktoberfest. And, after going to the Berg for the second time, I still hold to that.

In fact, Chris says that I can officially state that thebeergeek.com prefers the Berg to Oktoberfest. There are many reasons that I like it better. First of all, it is a German’s beer fest. While the time changes slightly each year, for the most part, the Berg happens before the start of tourist season, so there are not many foreigners present. I think the only English we heard was from our own mouths and the mouths of those brave enough to try to talk with us.

Next, is that the Berg is smaller and much less overwhelming. That’s not to say that there are not a lot of people. Saturday night was packed with very young, very rambunctious people (read: drunk). I think I waited in line for the toilet for 45 minutes! You learn fast to better plan for bathroom stops. Sunday, Mother’s Day, was much more manageable and I think I only waited about 15 minutes for the toilet.

YiB-5Mother’s Day brings me to another reason I like the Berg; it’s family oriented. This can be good or bad. It’s good in the sense that you can bring in your own picnic, water, etc. People even bring table cloths to put down as they pull out their picnic spread. The bad part is that the kid factor can be a bit much for non-breeders like us.

Yesterday we were playing scrabble when our table became overrun with a mutli-kid, multi-adult group. At one point, one of the men said “Your peace is over, with kids and Latins at the table”. (They were all speaking Spanish). He was right, but I wasn’t too worried until one especially active youngster, Christian, was practically sitting on my lap. I lost the scrabble game, by the way.

YiB-5Overall, we had a great time at the Berg. The beer was plentiful, the people were friendly, and the weather was exceptional. All and all a recipe for a great beer festival.

Today we are trying again to get in a Bamberg brewery and a few others on the way to Rödental, our final stop for tonight. We learned yesterday that today is a religious holiday, Whit Monday, so we’re hoping that places will be open. I was assured last night that even religious holidays can’t keep the Germans away from their beer. Apparently Mother’s Day doesn’t either.