Year in Beer – Ireland Preview

YiB-6The time around summer solstice might be the best time to visit the Emerald Isle. “Why?”, you ask?

Well, in June, it doesn’t get dark in Ireland until well past 10pm, meaning there are more daylight hours to drink beer. And believe me, daylight makes a huge difference in your beer drinking stamina. Check out the picture. Taken without a flash, the time was approximately 10pm.

This Year in Beer trip is the follow up to our Dublin episode. In that episode of One Pint at a Time, we showed you some of our favorite places in the Irish capitol. For the YiB, we will show some of our favorites in the rest of Ireland… well, as much of ‘the rest’ that we can accomplish 8 days.

YiB-6And we have a special theme for the trip… “Nitro-Free Ireland”. Chris got the idea for this from a discussion on the Irish Craft Brewer website. There is a practice in parts of Ireland of drinking room temperature pint bottles of Guinness. Yes… room temperature – not cellar temperature – the bottles of Guinness sit on the shelf behind the bar. People believe this is the true original way to drink Guinness. To make the trip more interesting, we will attempt to forgo all nitro-poured beers, which will be easier for Chris than me because I love anything on nitro. We will donate $5 for every nitro pint we drink to the Angel Project in Carmel Valley. They put together a “store” with everything from food items to clothes to toys to help needy Carmel Valley families out at Christmas.

On the trip, we will hopefully visit the following breweries:

  • Galway Hooker in Roscommon (new for us)
  • Biddy Early in Inagh
  • Franciscan Well in Cork
  • Beamish in Cork (new for us)
  • Carlow Brewing in Carlow
  • Macreddin Brewery in Macreddin Village
  • Porterhouse in Dublin
  • Messrs Maguire in Dublin (Chris is going to wear shorts, so we hope that they let him in. More on that story another time.)

While only two of the breweries are new, we haven’t been to Franciscan Well and Carlow Brewing in almost 10 years. It will be interesting to see how these ‘old time’ Irish craft brewers have changed over the years.

YiB-6On top of the breweries, we will also show you some of our favorite pubs across the country.

Gus O’Connor’s in Doolin is famous for Irish music and is probably our favorite pub in all of Ireland.

The pub to the right – which not even Chris can remember the name – is in West Cork and might have the best view of any pub in the country. Plus, you get to carry your pints across a busy road to the outside seating area.

Other highlights will include:

  • Visiting the town of Dripsey, which boasts the world’s shortest St. Patrick’s Day parade. The parade goes between the only two pubs in the village and measures a lengthy 26 yards. If we can manage the whole distance, we will have a pint in both pubs.
  • Visiting a dolmen with the largest capstone in Ireland, weighing in at 100 tons.
  • Us doing goofy tourist stuff… well, Chris doing goofy touristy stuff.

We will be spending one day in Dublin before we come home. And like the creatures of habit we are, we will be going to the same places we showed you in December. OK… maybe Chris will find one new pub to try and maybe we’ll show you our favorite music pub… maybe. Also, Boyzone is playing. We never miss an opportunity to see Boyzone.

beergeek.TV Bonus Video – Flogging Molly 3X

After we finished up the Year in Beer Franconia portion of our trip, we met our friends Ute and Wolfgang of floggingmolly.de in Cologne for the first of three Flogging Molly shows. The next night we saw the show in Munich and Vienna the night after.

We were planning on the three nights being an episode of One Pint at a Time… see if Merideth and Chris can survive large amounts of beer, the mosh pit, late nights, and early mornings. But, it wasn’t to be. First, our filming time was limited because we couldn’t bring the video camera to the venues. Then the star lost her voice after the Munich show and we only shot one clip in Vienna.

But all is not lost. We decided to put the footage together as a short bonus video. Highlights include:

  • Being passed on the autobahn while going 106mph
  • Drinking many a Kölsch in Cologne
  • Liters of beer in Munich

So enjoy Flogging Molly 3X…

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For all the beergeek.TV bonus videos click here.

 

 

New beergeek.TV Episode – Franconia

“Franconia” is the latest Year in Beer episode of One Pint at a Time.

Boasting the largest concentration of breweries in the world, almost 300, Franconia is a beer traveler’s dream. From the famous breweries of Bamberg to the small family-run village brewhouses, the Franconian beer experience never disappoints. Add in a great beer festival and Franconia might be the ultimate beer destination.

For the Year in Beer, we check out a few of the breweries and attend the Bergkirchweih Beer Festival.

For all the episodes of One Pint at a Time go to beergeekTV.

Three Crazy Days

The last three days of our trip were quite a crazy whirlwind of beer drinking, travel and punk. We finished the Year in Beer portion of our trip on Tuesday and drove to Cologne to meet up with Ute and Wolfgang for the first of three Flogging Molly shows on successive nights.

In the course of the three days, we got to meet a lot of new people and catch up with some old friends. Oh… and there was plenty of beer.

YiB-5We arrived in Cologne around 3pm, [By the way, avoid driving on A3 between Würzburg and Frankfurt until sometime in 2010] quickly dropped our bags off at our hotel, and walked the 30 meters to Früh am Dam. Früh is one of the more well-known Kölsch breweries and after a long day of travel, 10 or 12 small glasses of beer are just what were needed. Our group of six managed to down 40 glasses with Wolfie and myself accounting for the lions share. Check out the hash marks on the coaster.

Kölsch drinking tip: when you don’t want another, put a beer mat on top of your glass.

By the way, the Flogging Molly show was great . It was the first time we had seen them in Europe and we were blown away not only by the band, but also by the enthusiasm of the crowd.

Wednesday began bright and early since we had a 10am flight to Munich. Nothing like getting back to your hotel room at 1am and having to be at the airport at 8am the following day.

A little Munich travel tip: the airport has it’s own brewpub, Airbrau, in the central area, complete with a biergarten. We chose this as an opportunity to grab a quick beer before we boarded the S-Bahn into the city. We were also joined by a friend of Ute and Wolfie’s, Tina.

Typical of Bavaria, Airbrau had a Helles and Hefe Weizen, both of which were quite enjoyable.

The bonus was the biergarten; something I didn’t realize that was there. It was a beautiful day in Munich and the beer, the company, and the sun helped in the recovery from the long day and night before.

In the city center and feeling recharged, it was time for us to show our German friends around Munich. None of the three Germans we were with had spent much time in Munich. Due to time constraints, we got to do about one percent of what we wanted to show them.

First stop was the Weisses Brauhaus, the Schneider Weiss beer hall right off the Marien Platz. Besides the great Weiss beer, the main reason we wanted to go there was so that Wolfgang could do battle with the waitresses who can, at times, be a little snarky. But after years of waiting for this moment, our waitress was very nice and we had a pleasant time sitting in the sun and enjoying beer. Actually, the waitresses are more or less nice all the time – just at night and when it is really busy, they can be a tad short which is hard due to the language difference.

But soon it was time to get serious, and in Munich that means ein maß – beer by the liter. So, we headed around the corner to Hofbrauhaus and started the party for real.

Yes, the Hofbrauhaus can be touristy, but that is mainly at night and on the weekends. On a sunny weekday afternoon, it is very pleasant sitting in their biergarten drinking beers with your friends, new and old.

Finally, it was off to the to the Flogging Molly show. The venue, located on the Isar River had, of course, a biergarten. So, the liters began flowing anew. And even better, we weren’t kicked out after the show so we got to hang out in the biergarten again and talk to some of the band members.

After another late night, it was off to Vienna on Thursday morning. But this time, we were taking the train, so not only did we not have to be at an airport way too early, but also the four hour train ride gave us an opportunity to get more sleep.

This was our first trip to Vienna and we only had 24 hours. I will say straight out that we didn’t see many of the sites, except doing a quick Clark Griswold-esque tour of the city center.

But we did get to two of the Viennese brewpubs. And I have to give credit for the two we visited for stepping outside the lager box and actually brewing some ales as well.

The first, 1516 Brewery is located in the city center, a short distance from the Hofburg – the imperial palace. I stuck with the lager styles… a Lager and a Pilsner. I wanted to try their their Bavarian Dunkel, but didn’t get a chance. They also brewed a dry-hopped Irish Stout and served Victory’s Hop Devil on tap. By the way, 1516 is looking for help and speaking German is not a requirement.

The venue Flogging Molly played, the Open Air Arena, was pretty cool. It was an old slaughterhouse converted into an almost-too-hip concert venue with five or six different stages. Scattered throughout the complex of buildings are some cool bars serving a number of different Austrian lagers.

We visited the second brewpub, 7 Stern Bräu, the next day before we had to fly to Frankfurt. Located near the Neubaugasse U-Bahn stop, 7 Stern has good food, a nice biergarten and some excellent beer.

I tried their Helles, Dunkles and IPA. The Dunkles was the star of the bunch, but I have to say the IPA was surprisingly good. Not the 75+ IBUs that we come to expect on the West Coast but well-balanced and hoppy.

They also brewed a Chili beer, which I tasted and found a little too spicy. I don’t like my beer to burn going down.

I would like to thank Ute and Wolfgang for being the great friends they are and for introducing us to some new friends… Tina, Stefan, Annie, Simon, Klemens, Felix, Lucas, Bianca… I certainly hope I didn’t forget anyone…

 

A Holy-Day in Germany

YiB-5The first order of business on Monday was to head back to Bamberg. The problem was that Monday was a holiday – and a religious holiday at that. Unlike the States where everything is open, a holiday in Germany means everything is closed (except for restaurants we later discovered). By the way, I think the holiday is Pfingstmontag.

So, it was with a bit of worry that we approached Maisel Brau and much to our relief we saw a sandwich board out front – they were open.

But where were all the people? It was another beautiful, sunny day – a holiday and the biergarten was practically empty. Perplexed, we had a beer, Merideth a Pils and myself a Kellerbier, and decided to head into the Aldtstadt and to Bamberger Biertage.

We really weren’t sure what “Bamberg Beer Days” was about, but we figured that there would be beer and maybe that was where all the people were. What we remember about Bamberg from last June was that it was wall to wall people. But when we started walking from the parking garage to Maximillian Platz, where the beer days was being held, it was like walking through a ghost town. Still no people.

We found the plaza and it was completely empty. There were scores of empty tables and each Bamberg brewery had an empty booth. We finally saw a sign and the fun didn’t start until 4pm – four hours away.

But all was not lost. There was a booth selling bottles of beer and we were able to procure four bottles for our beer tasting after assuring the woman we were not going to be drinking them there. And on an interesting note, the beer we purchased was the one we lost last year in the broken bottle disaster at LAX.

Undaunted, we decided to do the only thing one should do on a religious holiday – visit a monastery. Of course, this one had a brewery, Altes Klosterbrauerei. Why else would we be there? Funny thing is that I’m not even sure of the name of the monastery.

After an unexpected long-ish walk up a hill, we found all the people we had been expecting in Bamberg. Granted not everyone was there to drink beer, rather they were there to view the ornate monastery buildings and maybe even buy something at one of the cheesy shops selling every manner of religious object.

But a number of people, like us, found the pleasant beer garden above the cathedral. The brewery only had two beers, a Pils and a Dunkel, but you really didn’t need much more choice than that.

We ordered a couple beers and grabbed a seat overlooking the cathedral. It is hard to describe the peaceful feeling of relaxing in a beer garden; basking in the sun, enjoying the tranquility and a beer. To me, this sums up beer travel in Germany.