But Where is the Coat Factory?

Sixteen hours after leaving the Monterey Beer Festival, Merideth and I were in Burlington, Vermont in the parking lot of Magic Hat Brewing Company waiting for the tasting room to open. Despite the overnight flight from San Francisco and the stressful connection at JFK, we were bright-eyed and bushy-tailed. What had us most excited was that this was our first trip to Vermont and Magic Hat our first Vermont brewery.

The outside is not like the inside...

I guess the tower should have been a clue, but the grayish, industrial exterior didn’t prepare us for what was inside. The “Artifactory,” which was dimly lit with strings of colored lights, was an ultra-hip mall store gone amok, complete with blaring music. Three quarters of the room was devoted to all manner of Magic Hat merchandise, from the normal logo clothing and glasses to golf balls and back packs. Amidst all this, we managed to locate the bar, which was over to the right.

The growler fill stations at Magic Hat

The tasting room only pours samples and fills growlers, as their license does not allow them to pour pints. Seeing all the tap handles, I thought we were in for an epic 18 beer sample set to start the day. But then I realized there were three identical sets of taps. Phew! Only six beers.

The cheerful bartender started us with Single Chair, their golden ale. It was a pleasant, light beer to start the trip. The well-known #9 was the fourth beer we sampled and it was just too sweet for me. If I could have ordered a pint, Blind Faith IPA would have been my choice. While not the hop bomb I’m used to drinking on the West Coast, it was a really nice brew.

With no growler to fill and no pints to drink, our stop at Magic Hat lasted all of fifteen minutes. Even after leaving a tip for the bartender, I still felt odd not actually paying for anything, so we purchased a taster glass.

On the shores of Lake Champlain

Vermont boasts the highest number of breweries  per capita in the United States. Burlington, located on the shores of Lake Champlain, was a typical college town with a number of bars in its quaint downtown area. This included three brewpubs all within blocks of each other. We had our cab driver drop us off in front of the Vermont Pub & Brewery, the state’s very first brewpub.

The prominent signage at Vermont Pub and Brewery

Rain was falling liberally, so we passed on the patio seating out front. Inside, there was a smattering of customers around the two bars.  For the sake of filming for beergeek.TV, we grabbed a couple of seats at the bar in the bright, airy atrium.

The cheese and beer samples at Vermont Pub & Brewery

There were ten beers in Vermont’s sampler. Merideth and I tasted everything from an Apricot Ale to a Milk Stout; a pretty wide variety to say the least. Merideth really liked the Burly Irish Ale, a Red Ale, while I favored the Milk Stout and Tulach Leis, a Flemish-style Vermont Sour Red Ale. The Tulach Leis was wonderfully tart, my second favorite beer of the day.

The Dunkin’ Donuts we ate earlier in the day were starting to wear off so we ordered a plate of Vermont cheese. Merideth enjoyed pairing the delicious cheeses to our beers.

Merideth at American Flatbread

A half a block away from Vermont Pub & Brewery was American Flatbread/ Zero Gravity Brewing. American Flatbread is a chain of high-end pizza restaurants with the flatbreads cooked in a “primitive” wood-burning oven. Some of the locations have breweries.

The warm and cozy wood-toned space was divided into two areas. Most of the restaurant was devoted to the dining area where the customers could watch their pizza being made in the open oven. We arrived prior to the dinner hour so we sat in the smaller bar area and ordered a sample of all the beers.

The beers at American Flatbread...

We delved into a second ten beer sampler of the day. The beers were just as eclectic as the Vermont Pub, just in a different way. The beers ranged from German and  Belgian-styles to American standards. Merideth’s favorite was Schoen Dorf, a delicious German-style light lager. Ever the hophead, I really liked the TLA IPA, with its delightfully piney hop flavor. It turned out to be my favorite beer of the day.

As 5pm approached, a line started developing for dinner. I felt like I had been transported to a Wiggles concert as all the adults had two or three kids in tow. Our name was already on the list, but Merideth went back to the hostess and requested that we be sat at one of the tables in the bar area thinking that would be the adult section. When we were finally sat for dinner, we cringed when a family sat next to us. Our dismay was complete when one of the kids threw a temper tantrum because she didn’t like their table. Despite the distractions, Merideth and I persevered and enjoyed our incredible pizza and beers. I guess if we returned in the future, we would wait until after family hour.

Feeling the effects of two long days...

We were very curious about our last Burlington stop, Three Needs Brewery. Described as a ‘dive bar’ in many of it’s reviews, we wondered what a such an establishment would look like in Vermont. Walking in, we noticed  it was a bit dingy and the white hip-hop music a bit loud. But as Merideth astutely observed, it was much too bright and clean to be a dive bar.

There were only four beers to try which was probably a good thing. We were starting to peter out, feeling the effects of two days on the go with little sleep. The beers were not spectacular, but competent. Merideth and I both chose the Schwarzbier as our last beer of the day.

Burlington was one of those fun towns that in hindsight, I wished I had planned more time there to explore. But we accomplished a lot in our one day visit and I am sure we will be back again. Most important, I learned that Burlington Coat Factory was founded in Burlington, New Jersey, not Vermont.

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New beergeek.TV Episode – Springtime in Portland

Peeps and beer on Easter weekend

“Springtime in Portland” is the latest episode of One Pint at a Time.

Our tenth visit to Portland was our first not attending the Oregon Brewers Festival. Admittedly it was quite strange walking through the waterfront park and not seeing the familiar large white festival tents.

With no festival to attend, we were free of concentrate on our primary mission, adding breweries to the List. We visited outlying breweries that in previous years we had missed. And we enjoyed a wonderful urban beer hike on a glorious springtime Saturday.

So enjoy our tenth visit to the Rose City…

For all the episodes of One Pint at a Time go to beergeekTV.

The Legend That is Boonville Beer Fest

In Northern California beer lore, one beer festival stands out amongst all others: the Boonville Beer Festival. The stories beer geeks brought back from Mendocino County were the stuff of legend. Great beer aside, it was the tales, especially of the campground parties, that piqued the interest of people who missed out. It took us fifteen years, but we finally made it to our first Boonville Beer Festival to experience the legend for ourselves.

Disclaimer: Merideth and I don’t camp. We spent Friday and Saturday night comfortably in a hotel room. Therefore, we didn’t get the full Boonville Beer Festival experience. And, we are OK with that.

The crowd lined up for the 15th Annual Boonville Beer Festival...

The threat of rain didn’t keep the crowds away. The scruffy looking bunch began lining up over an hour before the opening time of 1pm. After being ID’d and banded by one of the festival staff, Merideth and I joined the line a bit before noon. Being our first Boonville, we looked over fellow festival-goers to gauge what the our day could be like. They were a rough looking bunch. Friday night in the campgrounds must have been a good time.

Merideth's first beer at her first Boonville Beer Fest

At 12:45, the doors were opened and the eager crowd streamed into the Mendocino County Fairgrounds. Not knowing the layout of the festival, Merideth and I bee-lined for the first set of taps we could see, just off to the left. In this grouping amongst others, was the festival host, Anderson Valley Brewing, Triple Rock and Russian River Brewing who already had a lengthy line. Around the corner, I found Moonlight Brewing and  Twist of Fate on cask was soon filling my tiny tasting glass. Merideth’s first beer was Mammoth Brewing Golden Trout Pilsner.

Conveniently located in the animal pens...

With our first beers in hand, it was time to explore the lay of the land. The festival was spread out over a large portion of the Fairgrounds. Breweries were grouped in the animal stalls that ringed a redwood grove. More were grouped on the opposite side in a giant field where the wrestling matches later occurred. The spread out nature of the festival was somewhat annoying when we were first trying to figure out where everyone was located.  But later with the festival was in full swing, the roominess was a godsend. When one area became too congested, we just found another area that was less crowded.

One of the more popular festival brews...

Overall, the beer selection at Boonville would make many beer festivals jealous. The list included a Who’s Who of California breweries. And a few hearty brewers made the long trek down from Oregon and Washington, including one of our favorites, Double Mountain from Hood River. There was even a couple of breweries we never heard of.

Merideth enjoying a Moonlight Reality Czeck

We sampled a number of beers over the course of four hours. Some of the beers of Merideth and I thought were of note:

  • Ballast Point Sculpin
  • Cherry Voodoo Triple
  • Double Mountain Hop Lava & Vaporizer
  • Drake’s Denogginizer
  • Firestone Walker Double Jack
  • Moonlight Bombay by Boat, Twist of Fate (firkin) and Reality Czeck
  • Mad River Dry Hopped Amarillo (firkin)
  • Marin Brewing White Knuckle
  • Sierra Nevada Hips Helles
  • Triple Rock “The Judge”
The late afternoon crowd...

We’ve been to drunk-fests before, but Boonville made these other festivals look like a little old lady tea party. And I don’t really mean that in a bad way. From the opening bell, people were eager to party and party hard. Despite this vibe, there was never  a feeling that things were going to get out of control. I think large amounts of marijuana being smoked mellowed the crowd. Even the wrestling in the big field appeared to be good-natured hijinks between friends. When the taps were finally shut off, the large number of people snoozing on the ground was evidence of a great day.

Our beer of choice in the Brewers Campground

Despite not camping, we did get a taste of  the campground experience after the festival. We wandered over to the Brewers Campground behind the Anderson Valley Brewery. For the next hour or so, we walked around that magical place where so many of the legendary Boonville stories are set. We popped in on our friends’ campsites, sharing stories and beers.

A necessity for any campsite...

Merideth and I finally settled in the Marin Brewing’s campsite where a large number of people were gathered. The centerpiece of their area was a huge grill-mobile, an impressive piece of food cooking engineering. We enjoyed an Anderson Valley sunset chatting with friends, watching Whiffleball and eating amazing grilled lamb and chicken.

Groping our way back to our car in the dark with rain drops beginning to fall, Merideth and I talked about our fun-filled day. Our first Boonville Beer Fest was quite an eye-opening experience. We’ll probably be back and next time we may even camp. Many thanks to Sierra Nevada, Marin Brewing, and New Belgium for all their generous hospitality!

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A Portland Beer Hike

Our tenth visit to Portland was also a first for us. This trip to the Rose City was our first not during Oregon Brewers Festival. Those sunny and warm July days were our only reference point for Portland weather. But we’d heard that it can be quite rainy other times of year, especially in Spring. With an urban beer hike planned for the Saturday of Easter weekend, we traveled prepared for non-July conditions.

A beautiful morning in Portland

Thankfully, Mother Nature was smiling upon on Easter Eve. We left our downtown hotel on a gloriously sunny Saturday morning and were down to t-shirts before we reached the Burnside Bridge, our gateway to the East side of the Willamette River. The first leg of our beer hike was the longest, almost 3.5 miles. After crossing the bridge and a few slight lefts, we were strolling up East Sandy Blvd. destined for the Hollywood district.

Columbia River Brewing

The journey up East Sandy wasn’t that memorable except for passing a Voodoo Donuts shop. We wanted to try a one of their doughnuts but the long line inside discouraged us. We continued on. If I won’t stand in line for over-hyped beer, I certainly won’t stand in line for over-hyped doughnuts.

We reached Columbia River Brewing, just off East Sandy, in about an hour. Merideth immediately recognized the building as the Laurelwood we visited several years back, a fact later confirmed. There were only two other customers in the brewpub and we joined them at the bar. As further proof that it’s a small world, they were a Bay Area couple we met several years ago at a SF Beer Week event.

A well-deserved taster set at Columbia River Brewing

While we chatted with the couple and the bartender, we enjoyed our fourth straight nine beer sampler set of the trip. Merideth continued her search for the perfect Peep-beer pairing. Put to the test was Rose City Wheat, a raspberry Wheat, and Ground “N” Pound Double IPA. Of course the Peep went well with the IPA, as the super hoppy and sickly sweet balanced nicely. It didn’t go as well with the wheat, however. A prime example of fruit beer done right, the Rose City Wheat had a subtle, dry raspberry flavor; something the Peep’s sweetness completely overwhelmed.

For me, the Oatmeal Stout was really nice, but Hop Heaven, their 78 IBU, 7.5% ABV IPA was really heaven after a long walk. The real treat was getting to enjoy a pint of Hop Heaven since we were on foot.

Migration Brewing

After the hits and misses of the previous day, it was great to start our beer hike with a real winner in Columbia River Brewing. Our friend Mike joined us at Columbia River and accompanied us for the rest of the afternoon. Since we had more ground to cover, we reluctantly finished our brews and moved on.

Returning to East Sandy Blvd., we headed back the way we came, towards downtown Portland. After a little over a mile, we reached Migration Brewing.

Enjoying the sun and a Lupulin IPA at Migration

Planning an urban beer hike is more than just picking all the beer stops. The key to successful beer hike is building in pee stops at just the right intervals. We visited Migration on a beer hike during our visit to Portland last summer. We really liked the beer and atmosphere during our first visit, so we were happy to return. It’s location between point A (Columbia River Brewing) and point B (Burnside Brewing) was perfect for a quick toilet break and beer stop.

While the majority of customers were inside watching the Trail Blazers playoff game, our trio enjoyed the beautiful Portland weather outside on their patio. Merideth put the Migration Pale Ale to the Peep test, while Mike and I split a pitcher of the citrusy and delicious Lupulin IPA.

Merideth being difficult at Burnside

Business taken care of  and beer finished, we could now move on to point B, Burnside Brewing. We continued in the general direction we had been heading and after another mile we were sitting outside at Burnside Brewing pouring over the  their menu.

I have to admit, I was a bit worried at first. While Burnside looked like just another casual, former industrial space Portland brewery, seeing the word ‘confit’ on the food menu had my douche radar going off. We’re just not confit people. But once the taster set was in front of us, my fears were disappeared.

The taster set at Burnside Brewing

While only five beers, the lineup was eclectic. There was an interesting Oatmeal Pale Ale, probably the first I had ever tried. Chili beers still seem to be alive and well in Portland and Burnside’s entry was Sweet Heat, an Apricot and Scotch Bonnet Wheat. The apricot was wonderfully subtle. Unfortunately, the Scotch Bonnet wasn’t. The star for me and Merideth was ‘Le Bas et Lumiere”, their session Belgian-style table beer. A perfect brew for the weather and timely as we needed to start pacing.

Sour heaven, Cascade Barrel House

The out and back portion of our hike was done as we left Burnside and headed south. Crossing into Southeast Portland, it was only a short half mile before we were at our next stop, Cascade Barrel House, the “House of Sour.” Arriving late afternoon, the Barrel House was packed with Trail Blazer fans with their eyes glued to the television. We grabbed a few seats at one of the non-prime TV viewing tables.

Now that is a taster set

The taster set was an overwhelming 17 beers. Remarkably, that was not the most ever. In 2008, we ordered an 18 beer sampler set at Moose’s Tooth in Anchorage. When we did the 18, we had the advantage of Moose’s Tooth being the first stop of the day. Well into our beer hike, I have to confess that we weren’t in the condition to truly enjoy the bounty in front of us. But we liked the pretty colors. When we return to Portland, we’ll have to pay the Barrel House another visit and make it our first stop.

Merideth did get a new angle in her search for the Peep-beer pairing. Would the contrasting sour flavors of the Cascade beers match well with the sweetness of the candy?

Several of the beers stood out for different reasons. The Gose was very salty, much saltier than the one we had in Germany. I loved the Vine, a blend of soured Tripel, Blonde and Golden ales with white wine grapes. But the  ‘WOW’ beer for me was Barrel #2 Live Kriek. Already a huge fan of the style, I have to say now say Cascade makes on of my favorites.

Merideth enjoying a Peep and Ginger Beer

Luckily, the next leg of our hike only took us around the corner because I was almost done and dusted. We stopped at Green Dragon to try their house beers brewed next door at Buckman Village Brewery. After the diverse collection of beers at Cascade, we didn’t bat an eye at Chamomellow, their chamomile brew, or the Ginger Beer.

Our Portland beer hike finished at Green Dragon. Over the course of a half day, we walked approximately six miles and visited five beer spots.  The weather was great, the beer excellent and the company enjoyable. Had we wanted to extend our beer hike, we would have had many choices in the area surrounding Green Dragon, but we’d already had a big day and were ready to settle down to watch the Timbers FC match. Beer and Football; there ain’t no pity in the Rose City!

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Completists in Portland

Evan Rail in his Good Beer Guide to Prague and the Czech Republic puts forth the idea of the beer traveling “completist” – someone who needs to go to EVERY brewery in a city to feel mission accomplished. With a brewery list to continually add to, this concept perfectly describes me and Merideth. Always visiting Portland during Oregon Brewers Festival, we were never left with enough free time to indulge this need. Our first Spring trip to Portland finally gave us the free time to fulfill our completist desires and add some outlying breweries to the List.

An early beer stop in Southeast Portland

Landing at Portland International Airport shortly before 8am, we needed an early opening brewery to get our day started on the right track. Located in the bottom portion of Southeast Portland, Philadelphia’s Steaks & Hoagies fit our needs perfectly. We were sitting at the bar ordering a nine beer taster set at the prime beer-drinking hour of 9am.

A beer traveler's breakfast

Merideth and I split the taster set as we each enjoyed a hoagie, the Italian Special for myself and Ham and Eggs for Merideth. I would be lying if I didn’t say that a few of the beers were kind of odd. There seemed to be a ‘house flavor’ permeating a number of the brews. With that said, we did enjoy several of the beers including Two Street Stout and the Belgian-style Golden Ale.

While we were finishing up our taster set and breakfast/lunch, we stumbled upon our theme for the Easter holiday episode of beergeek.TV. One of the morning TV shows was doing a segment on Peeps, those neon yellow sugar bombs in the form of a squishy chick-shaped confection. I wondered what beer pairs best with Peeps?

Enjoying the sun at Max's Fanno Creek

Armed with a meaning and purpose for our trip (plus a soon to be gotten box of Peeps) we were off to the Portland suburb of Tigard and our second destination of the morning. Located on Main St. in what I assume was ‘old town’ Tigard, Max’s Fanno Creek Brewpub was doing a bit of  a brisk business at 11am on a Friday. Despite there still being a chill in the air, I was surprised to hear Merideth wanting to sit outside.

Today is brought to you by the number 9

Nine was the number of the day as the taster set at Max’s was also nine brews. Not sure that Merideth truly got to taste and enjoy the beers because she was sampling them with the Peeps. She paired the sugary treat with the Golden Ale, Vanilla Porter, Raspberry Stout and Imperial IPA. The results will be revealed in the beergeek.TV episode.

I felt sick after one nibble of Peep, so I sampled all the beers unencumbered by the pairing question. Of the nine, the Dry Hopped Red, Reverend’s Daughter, a Belgian-style Golden Ale and the IPA stood out for me.

Chris with his first Scotch Egg

A highlight of our stop at Max’s was eating my first Scotch Egg. Our Irish friends always go on about them and despite not knowing what it was, I was curious to try one. [It’s a hard-boiled egg, wrapped in sausage, then deep fried] Despite the “fancy-ass chi-chi” presentation, it was quite tasty as most deep fried food tends to be when served with beer. I will admit, I did remove the yoke.

If you do make make it to Max’s Fanno Creek Brewpub, be sure to check out the bar top made from crow’s foot hemlock. The wood is 600 years old and spent 200 years at the bottom of the Columbia River.

A roadhouse in Portland

Our final stop on Friday’s completist brewery tour was Old Market Pub & Brewery. At the junction of two roads, Old Market had a real roadhouse feel, both inside and out. The rambling building had an expansive wood-paneled interior with a large dining room and a pool room in the back. With the warmth of the day finally showing, we took a seat in the beer garden out front.

A beer / food pairing conundrum

And yes, the sampler was nine beers again! For me, the star of their brews was Hop On, a hopped-up Amber Ale. Big surprise that I would pick the hoppiest beer as my favorite. Merideth continued her Peep/beer pairing quest putting Mr. Slate’s Gravelberry Ale, a raspberry Wheat Beer and Hop On to the test.

Enjoying the sunny Portland weather in their beer garden, we managed to squeeze in a game of Scrabble. Given the massive beating I took, Merideth won 340-310, I’ll think twice next time before suggesting to get a quick game in.

I wish Breakside was in my neighborhood

On Easter Sunday, we visited another of the outlying breweries on our target list. Conveniently located ten minutes from the airport, Breakside Brewery was an easy stop before our flight home. Located down a residential street, we thought that my douchephone directions had led us astray until we came upon a grouping of businesses amidst the homes.

The taster set at Breakside Brewery

Between the beer and food, Breakside Brewery was one of the highlights of the weekend. We sampled eight beers with three hoppy beers, Hoppy Amber, IPA, and IPA Jr., being the stars. Merideth even enjoyed IPA Jr. which could be an excellent session IPA if the brewers knocked the ABV down a bit. However, the most intriguing brew was the Kölsch-style Ale made with Rye. Light and refreshing with that Rye bite and spiciness, it would be the perfect brew for a Portland summer day.

Lovely Pork Belly Sandwich

I had looked at the Breakside food menu online before our trip and knew exactly what I wanted for Easter lunch, the Pork Belly Sandwich. Merideth ordered one as well. It was to die for! The pork was cooked to perfection and fennel slaw was a delicious accompaniment.

Lunch and beers at Breakside with our nephew and his significant other was the perfect way to spend Easter Sunday and to end our trip on a high note. While we are not ready to declare ‘mission accomplished’ the completist in us were very satisfied with our progress over the Easter weekend in Portand.

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