Off the Tourist Path

YiB-6Last week, I finished a book on the history of the Guinness Brewery. In talking about the death of Arthur Guinness, it mentioned where he was buried… in County Kildare just outside of Dublin. Of course, a light bulb went off in my head. I had the bright idea that we should visit his grave.

The odd thing is that the grave of one of the most well known Irishman in history is not sign-posted, nor is it very easy to find information on it. But armed with the name of the graveyard and a town, I was able to locate its proximity on a map.

YiB-6So after landing at Dublin Airport yesterday, we picked up a rental car and embarked on our quest to find the grave of Arthur Guinness.

Although we did get off the wrong exit, it was quite easy to backtrack on a country lane that paralleled the Grand Canal. We found the graveyard within a few minutes of leaving the highway.

Located on a quiet stretch of road, the graveyard sits on top of a hill surrounded by fields. After wandering around for a few minutes looking at gravestones, Merideth found what we were looking for… Arthur himself.

There was a great sense of satisfaction in successfully completing our first task of the day.

The second task of the day was to get to Roscommon, a town not on most tourist agendas, despite having one of the finest examples of an Anglo-Norman castle in all of Ireland.

So why were we in Roscommon?

If anyone remembers my December post “Dublin Discovery“, I mentioned how much I loved this beer called Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale. When I tried it in December, I knew I wanted to visit the brewery. And Roscommon is the home of the Galway Hooker Brewery.

I arranged for us to meet up with the brewer, Aidan Murphy. It was very generous of Aidan to accommodate us on a Friday afternoon when he was finishing up a brew.

We were able to sample the beer straight out of the fermenters and I have to say… Wow! It was even more hoppy and wonderful than I remembered… an amazing brew. Definitely seek out this beer when you are in Ireland. Check out the Irish Craft Brewers website; they keep a list of pubs that serve craft beer.

Thanks again to Arthur and Aidan for making Day 1 of our trip pretty special.

To view all the trip images click here.

 

The Other Top 10 List

Many weeks ago, Merideth posted her Top 10 List. And as promised, here is my version of my best beer experiences. I have to admit that I had the benefit of going to the Berg for a second time and it moved up many spots on my list.

10. Anchorage, Alaska – It might have been the cold and the fact I was overawed by being in Alaska but combine great beer with really friendly people and you get a top 10 beer experience.

9. Real Ale in London – What is a worse sin for a tourist in London?

  1. Not visiting Buckingham Palace
  2. Not drinking real ale in a London pub

I would say number 2. If you have seen one palace, you have seen them all. On the other hand, drinking real ale in a London pub is a unique experience.

8 . Weisses Brauhaus – The German beer hall is my favorite place to drink a beer. The atmosphere, the snarkey waitresses, the pretzels, the beer. And Weisses Brauhaus, home to my favorite hefeweizen, is my favorite beer hall in my favorite city… Munich.

7. Pints of Guinness in Dublin – You have never really had Guinness until you have had a pint in Ireland. It was almost 1o years ago that I had a pint of Guinness in Dublin for the first time and I can still remember that special moment. Of course, we don’t have a picture of it but here is Merideth enjoying her moment.

6. Oregon Brewers Festival – We have been to OBF more than any other festival; 2008 will be our ninth visit to this celebration of craft beer. What keeps us coming back? Great beer… great weather… friends… and the fact that Portland is one of the beer capitols of the USA.

5. Bamberg – A beautiful medieval city, Bamberg is also the center of one of the most amazing brewing regions in the world. Spending a day or two walking the old city and visiting its breweries and beer halls is truly an experience to remember.

4. Alpine Hiking – Combine two loves… beer and hiking… well three loves, if you throw in Merideth, and you make the top 10 list. Spend two hours hiking in the some of the most amazing scenery in the world and then come upon a hut to get rewarded with a beer and some food.

3. The Berg – In a forest setting in Bavaria, combine liters of beer with beautiful weather and an enthusiastic German crowd and you get the Bergkirchweih. Though older than Oktoberfest, the Berg only gets a million people over 12 days and is much more relaxing time.

2. Andechs Pilgrimage – There is something really special about making the 3km (or 5km if you go the long way) walk from the S-Bahn station in Herrsching to the Andechs Monastery. Mingling with not only beer pilgrims but also religious pilgrims, you are rewarded with arguably the best German beer in the world. And great food, too.

1. Oktoberfest – After our second visit to the Berg, I agreed with Merideth that it was a more enjoyable festival than Oktoberfest. So, why then is Oktoberfest #1?

Oktoberfest is the ultimate test and thus, the ultimate beer experience for any beer geek. The atmosphere is truly electric, the crowd festive and the liters are endless. You leave Oktoberfest with a sense of wonderment, awe and a feeling that you just climbed Mt. Everest.

The World Needs More Small Beer Festivals

Merideth and I remember fondly some of the small beer events we attended back in the day. Back then, it seemed like every weekend some charity got 20 or so breweries together to have a festival and raise money.

While these festivals lacked name recognition and number of breweries, they more than made up for it with a more intimate setting and enthusiastic crowds.

So with our string of HUGE festivals coming up, it was with some eagerness that we attended the 17th Annual Beerfest in Santa Rosa; 40 or so breweries, mostly local, were in attendance pouring their brews.

Our day would begin – and end – at the Russian River brewpub. We needed to go back and get some footage that we couldn’t get on Friday night. It was way too loud, and admittedly, I was bit tipsy from our day’s drinking and couldn’t get out a coherent sentence.

Besides their amazing beers, Russian River might have the coolest sampler tray ever. The beer markers were bottle caps.

The highlight of the sampler, besides Pliny the Elder and Blind Pig, was Dead Leaf Green, an English style pale ale.

We also tried Fleurette, the beer that Vinnie made with the Italian brewer Agostino Arioli, who owns Birrificio Italiano. Merideth liked this much more than I did and later Fleurette would become her “go-to” beer at the festival.

Then it was off to the festival. We parked at Mitch’s house and walked over to the festival with his crew.

I have to admit that I’m kind of a dork at festivals… there is a plethora of beers and I try to seek out new beers. But when I get that first bad beer, I go back to my go-to beers. And on this day, the go-tos were Pliny, Blind Pig and the Kolsch from Iron Springs.

The lines for beer were quite manageable but the food lines were another story. At Beerfest, the food is included in the admission price. So, if you wanted some of the succulent pulled pork, you had a long line.

Thanks to Jay Brooks for the photo.We ran into our friends Jay Brooks from the Brookston Beer Bulletin and Tom Dalldorf from the Celebrator. We also met a few new beer friends including Gail Williams and Steve Shapiro from Beer by BART and JJ who writes the blog The Thirsty Hopster.

You know it’s a small, intimate festival when Dean Biersch is pouring his own Hopmonk Tavern beer. It was my first time trying it and I have to say that the Kellerbier was exceptional.

However, the festival was not without incident. A person dropped a bottle of beer about 15 feet from me and I was actually wounded by a flying shard of glass.

In a year where we are going to the largest and most famous beer festivals in the world, we will look fondly back on this hot June day in Santa Rosa at Beerfest. In a era where festivals often pose a challenge to be overcome, long lines, noisy, & crowded spaces, it’s nice to go to a festival and relax while drinking beer with friends.

 

Year in Beer Side Trip – Old School

Who are those young kids?When we were invited to attend the Beerfest in Santa Rosa this coming weekend, we jumped at the chance to road trip it to Northern California.

Besides attending the beer festival and seeing old friends, this was a perfect opportunity to add a couple of new breweries to the list. Since we were last in the area over a decade ago, it was also an opportunity to revisit some breweries.

But I guess the ultimate reason for giving a quick ‘yes’ to the invite was that it reminded us of back in the day when our beer travel was a spur of the moment, ‘want to head over to Marin/Sonoma for the day?’ endeavor.

Back then, we were living in Oakland and popping over to the other side of the Bay was no big deal. Today, it is a three hour drive.

The new breweries that we are visiting:

  • Iron Springs in Fairfax
  • Lagunitas in Petalum (Yes, we have never been to Lagunitas)
  • Firehouse in Sunnyvale

The breweries that we are revisiting:

  • Bear Republic
  • Third Street Aleworks
  • Russian River Brewing

We’re planning on making a One Pint at a Time episode out of this side trip, so be sure to look for it in the future.

beergeek.TV Bonus Video – Flogging Molly 3X

After we finished up the Year in Beer Franconia portion of our trip, we met our friends Ute and Wolfgang of floggingmolly.de in Cologne for the first of three Flogging Molly shows. The next night we saw the show in Munich and Vienna the night after.

We were planning on the three nights being an episode of One Pint at a Time… see if Merideth and Chris can survive large amounts of beer, the mosh pit, late nights, and early mornings. But, it wasn’t to be. First, our filming time was limited because we couldn’t bring the video camera to the venues. Then the star lost her voice after the Munich show and we only shot one clip in Vienna.

But all is not lost. We decided to put the footage together as a short bonus video. Highlights include:

  • Being passed on the autobahn while going 106mph
  • Drinking many a Kölsch in Cologne
  • Liters of beer in Munich

So enjoy Flogging Molly 3X…

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For all the beergeek.TV bonus videos click here.