Back in Alaska

Ever since our first visit to Anchorage three years ago during the inaugural month of the Year in Beer, we vowed we would make it back someday. Our first visit kicked off our most ambitious beer travel project ever and Anchorage turned out to be the perfect place to do it. The beer scene was so welcoming and friendly for two people unsure of what lay ahead in the upcoming year. We made some great friendships, which left us feeling sentimental about the city.

It was a pretty easy trip to the chilly far north on Wednesday, despite the bumpy landing. The only worry was whether my checked bag would appear in Anchorage. I was wearing shorts and if my bag didn’t arrive, it was going to be one cold trip. Merideth’s bag came out pretty quickly and I fretted as I watched bag after bag pop down onto the conveyor. I finally saw the familiar shape and color of my bag and with a sigh of relief, we were off.

We needed a beer after a long day of travel

First stop wasn’t our hotel, but Cafe Amsterdam, a beer bar owned by our friend Ken Pajak. Late afternoon, it was already dark when our taxi turned into the strip mall where it’s located. Stopping at the entrance, we quickly piled out of the van and into the warmth of Cafe Amsterdam. We stacked our luggage in the corner and sat down to contemplate a much needed beer.

While Merideth began with Silver Gulch’s Coldfoot Pilsner, first up for me was Midnight Sun Sockeye Red IPA. On the go since early morning, it was quite relaxing to be sitting on a bar stool in our favorite Anchorage beer bar drinking great Alaskan beer.

After several rounds, catching up with Ken, and some yummy Rösti, we decided we should move on. I was still in shorts and we still needed to get downtown. Luckily, Gabe Fletcher, formerly of Midnight Sun, now with his own Anchorage Brewing Company, was hanging out at Cafe Amsterdam as well. He needed to go downtown and offered to give us a ride and also show us around his new venture.

Merideth amongst the barrels at Anchorage Brewing Company

I hoped to visit Anchorage Brewing Company on the trip because it was the third brewery that Merideth needed to reach 600. But as we talked to Gabe, we realized that Anchorage Brewing doesn’t fit our criteria to be on The List. Located below Sleeping Lady Brewery, Gabe brews on their kit then pipes the beer down to his barrel room for aging. At this point, we have decided this type of cooperative brewing arrangement doesn’t count for our List. Admittedly, this may become a problem for The List because it is an arrangement that is becoming more and more common.

List criteria aside, though, the barrel room was quite impressive. Stacked three high and in neat rows, a hundred or so barrels sat in the basement space working their magic on the beery contents. Most impressive was that all the beer in the barrels was already sold. We look forward to trying some of the brews in the near future.

Apricot XXX, a delicious triple with apricots

We eventually managed to check into our hotel. I put on some pants and we  headed out in the frigid evening for a quiet evening in town. Our beer destination of choice in downtown Anchorage is Glacier Brewhouse. Walking into the bustling brewpub, it was just how I remembered it, even down to the wood smoke from the fireplace. We also recognized JT, the bartender who first told us about Alaskan living.

We located a couple of seats on the back glass wall overlooking the brewery. Like my first visit three years ago, I started with their cask offering, this time the IPA. Merideth began with their Export Lager. After a Double IPA,  I ordered the first candidate for beer of the trip, Apricot XXX. A 10%ABV “Holiday Triple”, Apricot XXX was a beer that both Merideth and I said ‘wow.’ Sweet with a  healthy apricot kick, the smoothness approached dangerous levels.

It was turning out to be the quiet evening we envisioned. We chatted with people around us while sipping our excellent beers and munching on some appetizers.

The downfall...

But then, I looked at the menu too closely and saw it was the Brewhouse Big Wood Fest. That meant we could order a sampler of five ‘giants’ from their cellar. All between 9% and 10% ABV, there were three years of their award-winning Big Woody Barleywine plus an Imperial Stout and a Eisbock. Of the five, Merideth liked the Imperial Stout aged 30 months in a Czech virgin oak barrel. I gravitated towards the 2009 Big Woody aged 18 months in American oak. It was the smoothest of the five.

The problem arose when our waiter told us that he thought it was terrible when people didn’t completely finish such rare and special samplers. We took this not as a challenge, but rather more as a sacred duty to finish all five. Unfortunately, after Merideth had her baby sips, the ‘sacred duty’ then fell to me. I finished all five but would feel it the next morning.

View all the Anchorage images

The Urbane Beer Hikers

We’re not unfamiliar with walking all over a city visiting pubs, brewpubs and breweries. From our earliest days of beer travel, this was our favorite mode of transportation.

Turns out, there is a whole website devoted to this mode of beer crawl, urbanbeerhikes.com. Thanks to our friend, Chris Devlin, we met the website’s owner and urban beer hike guru, Dave, for a Saturday hike around San Francisco.

Starting the hike with a smile and a beer

On a pleasant early November day, our five-some began the hike at City Beer Store. The quintet included Dave, Chris Devlin, Renee, Merideth and myself. This was Dave’s first visit to the City so we would be covering familiar ground on our hike.

The beers that began our day included Russian River Redemption, Jolly Pumpkin La Parcela, Auburn Alehouse Festbier and Bear Republic “Mach 10”.

With a good base of  beers, it was time to find some food. In a city where walking can can be quite vertical and challenging, our journey to the Public House at A&T Park (1.4 miles) was typical of what we mostly would experience on the day, nice and flat.

Sierra Nevada Torpedo on draft at the Public House

In contrast to the previous week’s World Series bedlam and subsequent celebrations, the Public House was relatively quiet on this Saturday afternoon.

While most of our crew ordered the house cask beer, Billy Sunday Bitter, Merideth began with Firestone Walker’s Velvet Merlin Oatmeal Stout. Accompanying the beers at the Public House where high-end pub grub items such as Mac-n-cheese, Pulled Pork Sliders, a BLT and Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream.

It was a short walk to 21st Amendment (.4 miles). Where the Public House was quiet, 21A was buzzing with activity. We ended up grabbing a table up in the loft.

A man and his watermelon beer

It was the first week of the BRU/SFO Project, the  Belgian-inspired brews month at both 21A and Magnolia. There were three  BRU/SFO creations available on our visit. Merideth and I both passed on the cocoa Witbier to try Via, a really nice Belgian-style Single. Our valiant leader, Dave, couldn’t turn down an opportunity to have Watermelon Wheat with a slice a watermelon.

After 21A, we had the longest leg of the day, a 1.8 mile walk to North Beach. If there are any hills on this hike, it would be the walk up Columbus Ave. After a quick stop at Golden Boy Pizza for some more food, we walked around the corner to the Church Key.

The Church Key is one of my favorite beer spots in the City. I just love the laid back neighborhood atmosphere of the tiny bar. Unfortunately, on this evening, the beer selections excited no one in our group. So, we were ‘one and done’.

From the quiet Church Key, it was another short walk (.4 mile) to the opposite end of the spectrum, the loud and boisterous La Trappe. Descending the stairs into the cellar, we were greeted by a din of noise from an almost packed house. Luckily, we found a few seats at the bar.

Another one of my favorite beer destinations in the city, I could only manage a St. Bernardus Christmas beer before the Saturday night crowd got the best of us. Looking back, La Trappe maybe should have been our first North Beach stop.

The snack of champions

We finished the evening at Specs’ Twelve Adler Museum Cafe, the first new place of the day for Merideth and me. Better known as just Specs’, this old-school dive bar was only a half mile from La Trappe. Like any good dive, Specs’ was located down a alley.

We found a table in the very,very dim bar and ordered a pitcher of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. To accompany our beer, Merideth ordered a wedge of cheese and saltines. After spending the day at the higher end of the San Francisco beer scene, munching on cheese and saltines chased with Pale Ale in a dimly lit bar was oddly satisfying way to close our evening.

In the end, from City Beer Store to Specs’, we walked a short 4.5 miles. Adding in the walk to and from our hotel, Merideth and I walked close to 7 miles. Not bad for a day’s beer drinking.

View a map of of our hike

[Read Merideth’s article on another San Francisco Beer Hike]

Here are a few more pictures to enjoy…

New beergeek.TV Episode – PDX Roadtrip

A rare site on video… thebeergeek.com team together.

“PDX Roadtrip” is the latest episode of One Pint at a Time.

We were excited to return to Portland for our ninth Oregon Brewers Festival. But with two previous beergeek.TV episodes already covering the West Coast’s best beer fest, we needed to do something different. Driving the 700 some odd miles to Portland was our brilliant solution.

So enjoy our latest beer adventures…

For all the episodes of One Pint at a Time go to beergeekTV.

 

And The Award Goes To…(2010 Edition)

Saturday dawned at the Great American Beer Festival with the gusto of having burned the candle at  every possible end for the previous two days. Neither of us was anything approaching bright-eyed and bushy-tailed but there was a light at the end of tunnel. We were only going the member’s session on Saturday then flying home. We would safely be back in our bed with the pups on Saturday night.

The employee Longshot brews

We started our day at Marlowe’s for a breakfast hosted by Boston Beer Company. Besides food, beer and friends, we were at Marlowe’s to hear Jim Koch announce the winners of their Longshot homebrew contests. There were two announcements, the winner of the national contest, as well as the Boston Beer Company homebrew contest winner. As opposed to years past, the 2010 edition of Longshot had all entrants create brews fitting category 23 of BJCP, “Specialty” beer.

When we arrived, they had just started pouring the three employee finalist’s brews. Over 300 employee entries were brewed and the three finalists were all women; all first time hombrewers. Besides enjoying a breakfast, our job was to try these beers and vote for our favorite.

Samuel Adam’s Barrel Room Collection

Besides the Longshot beers, the breakfast was also a chance to try some special Sam Adams brews that I don’t often see or have the inclination to buy. This year the special brews were from the Barrel House Collection, American Kriek, New World Tripel and Stony Brook Red. I’m not the biggest Sam Adams fan in the world but all three beers were excellent. If I had to chose a favorite, it probably was  a Stony Brook Red, a fabulous tart brew that hid it’s 9% ABV quite well.

Jim Koch with the three Longshot winners.

This year, two winners were chosen. Rodney Kibzey won Longshot for the second time with Blackened Hops, a Black IPA. He was joined by Richard Roper who brewed Friar Hop Ale, a really delicious Belgian-style IPA. Caitlin DeClerq triumphed in the employee contest with Honey Beer’s Lavender Wheat. My second time voting in the employee contest; my second time not choosing the winner.

Gone in 20 minutes…

Arriving at the member’s session, Merideth and I bee-lined for the Sierra Nevada booth. Well, I bee-lined and she followed. I had learned the previous night that they would be tapping a rare keg of Bourbon Barrel-aged Life and Limb. Very first in line, I was disappointed  when Sierra Nevada Bill told me that the tapping wasn’t going to happen for an hour. I’ll admit, I begged and pleaded. And I got the first pour. I think I like regular Life and Limb more, as the barrel aging overwhelmed the maple flavor that I enjoyed in that brew. It was still really good, though.

Merideth was finally ready to have a beer. She started easy with Magnolia’s wonderful Kalifornia Kolsch. That must have done the trick because next thing I know Merideth was sampling Onslaught, a 9.6% ABV Belgo-American Imperial IPA from Mountain Sun in Boulder. Despite being way outside her comfort zone, Merideth liked it.

After wandering around for about an hour talking with friends and running into Mr. Beer Goddess about a dozen times, we finally heard the announcement. The awards ceremony was about to start. We joined the mass migration to the stage area. We found a nice spot near the large orange-clad, cowbell ringing contingent from Iron Hill.

The big questions for the awards ceremony were:
1) How many medals would Pizza Port Carlsbad win?
2) Could Firestone Walker Union Jack three-peat the coveted IPA gold?

Our friend Steve Donohue grabs another bronze medal

I really enjoy the awards ceremony. It’s my favorite part of GABF. The crowd groans and chuckles when Category 30 medals (American-style Specialty Lager or Cream Ale) were announced: Hamms, Rainier and Old Style. But it’s the special moments that I like the best. We were standing in front of the Fat Head’s brewers when they won the silver medal in the hard fought IPA category. The looks on their faces was priceless.

Very happy people from Blue Lake, CA

Congratulations to our friends who won medals this year: Steve Donohue from Firehouse Grill and Brewery, Shaun O’Sullivan from 21st Amendment and Rodger Davis from Triple Rock. And a very big congrats goes out to Mad River Brewing Company for winning Small Brewing Company and Small Brewing Company Brewer of the year! I regret to say that Mad River had fallen off my radar in the last decade or so. I guess I need to revisit their brews.

Oh, to answer the two questions, Pizza Port Carlsbad won another boat load of medals and Union Jack did not three-peat.

Merideth and Melissa Cole

After the awards ceremony, Merideth and I were in wind down mode because right after the session, we were headed to the airport. While we searched out a few award winners, we had one more major task to accomplish before we left: find Melissa Cole. A beer writer from London, we have been online friends with her for quite some time but had never met. It took us awhile but we finally found her with about an hour left in the session. It was great to finally meet.

Seven hours after we walked out of the Colorado Convention Center, we were at home with Porter and Stout jumping all over us. Another great trip to Denver was over. I am already looking forward to the 2011 Great American Beer Festival.

 

It’s What We Do

We couldn’t travel to Denver without visiting a few new breweries. It’s what we do. Plus, with the year winding down, I wanted to pick up three or four to help with our goal of reaching 600 by year’s end. The problem is that the eastern slope of the Rockies is well traveled territory for us. After  a bit of research, I found four potential targets just south of Denver.

We were on the road late morning to reach our first stop at their 11am opening time. After what seemed like a million traffic signals, we were at our first destination, Hops Restaurant and Brewery, in the Denver suburb of Littleton.

Hops Restaurant and Brewery in Littleton

I know I should have more of an open mind, but I’ll admit I am not a huge fan of chain breweries. My expectations tend to be low and I just view them as a notch on the bed post. However, we were  pleasantly surprised at Hops. The staff was very friendly, even after we told them we were on a brewery tour so we only wanted a taster set.

The taster set at Hops

And the beers were not too bad. My biggest beef with chains is that their beers usually taste the same no matter what style they’re supposed to be. Not so at Hops. There were a couple of flavorful beers amongst our six beer sampler. I thought the Thoroughbred Red and the Hoptoberfest were the best while Merideth’s favorite (although she’s embarrassed to admit it) was the Clearwater Light.

After visiting nearly 600 breweries, I have developed a sixth sense about when a brewery visit will potentially be a problem. It’s that “uh oh” feeling I get that tells me the brewery is going to be either  a) closed, b) closed for good or c) not have any of their own beers.

Our second stop, Falcon Brewing in Parker, was one of those breweries where I got the “feeling.”  Before our trip, I confirmed that the other brewery in Parker was open, so it wasn’t going to be a complete loss if my feeling about Falcon was correct.

And the correct prediction was… C. Falcon was out of their beer. The bartender told us that the house brews would be ready in a week. Even, “Oh, well, we’re from California” didn’t get us any samples from the fermenters.  Out of luck, we headed over to Parker’s other brewery.

The wonderful beers of Elk Mountain

Elk Mountain Brewing was the pleasant surprise of the trip. Located in an industrial park off the main road into Parker,  the tasting room is bright and spacious with that really new feel. That made a lot of sense as Elk Mountain had held its grand opening party just one month before. Like many of the new generation of beer places we have visited recently, Elk Mountain does not have food, but provides a number of takeout menus from local restaurants who will deliver.

Taster set paddle made from an old snowshoe

As one of the only customers early on a Friday, we had a chance to chat with Tom, brewer/owner and his assistant. Elk Mountain is apparently known for their German-style beers and it showed with a wonderful Hefeweizen, Wild Wapiti Wheat. Lots of banana and clove, just how I like it. Merideth loved the clean and crisp Mine Shaft Kölsch. However, Puma IPA was the star of the show. A wonderful hop bomb!

One up on Merideth again…We had one more

We had one more stop before returning to Denver. Merideth picked up Dry Dock Brewing  a few months back on a trip without me. That was an important moment for her as she leveled the brewery count. To show what a wonderful husband I am, I offered to skip Dry Dock on this trip so we could reach 600 at the same brewery this December in Europe (I’m such a  romantic!). Merideth said not to worry about it and it was okay to go to Dry Dock. However, once there, she engaged in a bit of whining and claimed not to remember this pre -trip conversation.

Enjoying an 11 beer taster set at Dry Dock

A few hours before the Friday night session, Dry Dock was hopping when we rolled in. The bartender was quickly and efficiently pouring taster set after taster set. Wanting to try all 11 beers, we ordered an almost double taster set and found a table in the corner.

Dry Dock subsequently won four silver medals at GABF the following day, but unfortunately only one of those beers would be available on our visit. U-Boat Hefeweizen was the second great Hefe of the day!

However, the beer I really went to Dry Dock for was Seven Seas Double IPA. I drank it for the first time the day before at Falling Rock. This massive hop bomb was my favorite beer of the trip and I was hoping to bring some home. When I inquired about purchasing a couple of bottles, the bartenders reaction told me I was light years too late. After a few sips of each of our beer samples, we slipped out and headed back to Denver. I had picked up three breweries, Merideth two; closer and closer to 600.

Enjoying a few of the Squatters brews

In our two previous GABFs, we have shied away from both the Friday and Saturday night sessions. They have the reputation for being really crowded  with long beer lines.  Not the kind of scene Merideth and I generally like. But this year, we attended Friday night’s session mainly because the beermen.TV guys were going. They missed meeting up with us at Falling Rock before the session (something about needing a beauty nap), so we agreed to hook up with them at the session.

Finding three Aussies and a Kiwi at the Friday night session was easier said than done. Employing our wandering down the aisle choosing breweries without lines tactic, we figured we would run into them sooner or later. Halfway through the three  hour session, we still hadn’t found them. By 8:30pm, the crowds were getting too large for our enjoyment so we gave up our quest and left the festival.

Drinking an Asher Amber at Freshcraft

We couldn’t leave Denver without trying one of the new beer establishments in the city. There were a number to choose from but we selected Freshcraft, mainly because it was a few blocks from Falling Rock. With the GABF session still going on, Merideth and I easily found a spot at the bar.

Earlier in the day, we learned from our friend and Colorado beer writer, Dan Rabin, that Boulder had a new organic brewery, Asher Brewing Company. What a coincidence… the first beer listed on the menu was Asher Amber. Merideth and I both ordered a pint of this really nice brew. After the din of the GABF session, it was nice to wind down a bit and have some dinner. Even the semi-annoying birthday girl couldn’t even damper our relaxation, though she tried hard.

Getting crowded at Freshcraft

But once the GABF session ended, the small restaurant filled up quickly and we felt pressed up against the bar. The party really got started when Greg Koch from Stone arrived to do an event in the back of the restaurant. At the same time,  Odell Brewing started pouring a firkin of  their Bourbon barrel-aged Stout. After chatting with Joe, a brewer from Odell for a few minutes and trying the Stout, we finally had enough for the day. Merideth and I looked at each other, giving each other the “it’s time to call it a night” look. We left Freshcraft and headed back to our hotel.