My Day at Rogue Farms

Chris and I rarely beer travel separately. We enjoy traveling together and it feels weird to do otherwise. However, when I was presented with an opportunity to spend the day out at Rogue Farms celebrating women, beer and agriculture, I had to do it. And, leave Chris behind.

Rogue farms in Independence, OR

Beer Goddess Lisa Morrison and I started the morning out with an hour and a half drive from Portland down to Independence, a small pastoral town with lots of character. After a few missed turns due to chatting, we arrived at Rogue Farms. I was first struck with the size of the farm. I expected the hop yard (which was as impressive as any I’ve seen in Germany), but I didn’t realize all the other wonderful things going on there.

Acres and acres of hop bine walls on my left were matched on my right with a hazelnut orchard, rye field and beehives as we drove in. Shortly after arriving, the group of mostly media folks (and mostly women) gathered in the James and Franny Coleman Conference Center. Barley’s Angels Director Christine Jump organized the day’s schedule with fun and informative activities that started out with a taco lunch made with Chicken cooked in Rogue’s Chipotle Ale. It was very tasty, but admittedly it was odd that we were only offered water and pink lemonade for beverages (no beer).

During our lunch, we were treated to an entertaining talk about “beer vacations” from the famous Teri Fahrendorf. She offered great tips for organizing a well-planned, beer-packed adventure, as well as talked about her famous Pink Boots Tour, the cross-country journey that gave rise to the Pink Boots Society.

oh beautiful hops…

The next activity was a hopyard tour led by Farm Manager Natascha Cronin. While surrounded by Independent hop bines, she admitted to being a bit nervous talking to a bunch of well-versed beer people. Natascha performed brilliantly, however, as she led us through the life of a hop on Rogue Farms—from growing and harvesting to kilning and baling.

We then gathered outside on the lawn for Lisa’s seminar on proper glassware. She led us in an extremely effective exercise with spiced gumdrops that demonstrated the importance of aroma (I don’t want to give away Lisa’s party trick, so all I’ll say is that it was amazing!) and guided us through a taste test using various glassware, including one that fully cups around your nose and mouth. Her talk also gave us the first opportunity to drink some beer! Drinking Rogue Chocolate Stout out of a pilsner glass was an interesting experience to say the least. So was sharing the outdoor area with a handful of chickens who weaved in and around our tables. One especially vocal rooster even gave Lisa several crows of approval towards the end of her talk.

The Farmstead brewery…

More beer was to come as we took a “tour” of the Farmstead Brewery. The tour consisted of hanging out in a barn with a woodworking shop on one end and a 1.5 bbl system on the other. Head Brewer Josh Cronin is a down-to-earth guy who laughed at his job title. He is, after all, the only brewer. We mingled and tried out the patio furniture made from old barrels as we sipped our samples of a not yet finished Nut Brown Ale. It needed a bit more time, but the flavor was definitely there and it was good! I also appreciated Josh’s casual approach to brewing. His perspective as a brewer is very similar to my perspective as a beer drinker: Do you like the beer? Is it good? Then it’s a keeper. If not, try something else. No need to over analyze things.

Beer and food pairing…

By this time, we were running a bit behind on our agenda, so Julia Herz took us on a whirlwind adventure in food pairing. She provided a fast-paced, authoritative presentation on how flavors contrast and complement each other. All of the beers were fantastic and our selection of food items was fun. Here’s some of our table’s findings:

Chatoe Rogue’s Good Chit Pils was a perfect match with feta. Ellie’s Brown from Avery definitely did NOT go with the feta! Breckenridge’s Oatmeal Stout went very well with the dark chocolate and blue cheese was exceptional with Rogue’s Imperial IPA. The hand’s down favorite pairing at our table was also the most surprising: Crabtree Brewing’s Berliner Weiss with dill pickles! I’ll eat pickles regardless of what I’m drinking. Doesn’t matter if the flavors conflict. But now I know at least one option I can go to when chowing down on a jar of pickles. One pairing that will come as no surprise to anyone was that the caramel corn went great with everything!

Perhaps my favorite part of the day was the soap making and foot balm demonstrations by Tammy Taggart of Farmland Soap Company. Apparently my interest in this was obvious, as Lisa later told me that I looked absolutely riveted. Among her other products, Tammy talked about her methods of using craft beer in soap (a bar of which we each got to take home) and hop oil in foot balm (we got one of those, too). It was very cool to watch and even the talk of rigorous safety precautions when using lye (an extremely caustic ingredient in soap) didn’t deter me from thinking I may have found my newest hobby.

Note: In the process of making soap, the lye is neutralized when it reacts with other ingredients. So just to be clear, Tammy’s soaps are absolutely safe.

The last part of day at the farm was time at the tap room. It was also the least structured and gave us an opportunity to socialize. Our participation in the day’s events included tastes of the beer, spirits, and rootbeer. I, however, stuck with beer. I especially enjoyed the Dirtoir Black Lager while talking beer with fellow girl beer geeks Corrie and Megan.

Here with Brian Yaeger and Lisa Morrison. The end to a great day…

The crowning glory of our amazing day was a farm to table feast of roast pig, salmon, and shrimp ceviche made with lime and pilsner. The cornbread topped with garlic butter and the coleslaw were equally tasty. Unfortunately, after all that, I was too full to get my rootbeer float.

The sun was setting and Lisa began to feel the effects of being the most popular girl at the mosquito party, both signals that it was our time to leave. It had been a long and remarkable day of celebrating women, beer, and agriculture. And one I will definitely mark up there with some of my best beer adventures.

Thank you to everyone at Rogue Farms (go to http://www.rogue.com/almanac/chatoe.php to see what to expect from a visit to the farm) and to Christine Jump with Barley’s Angels for organizing such a wonderful day!

View all the images from my day at the hop farm…

The Bistro’s 15th Annual IPA Fest

Planning a relaxing Saturday, a friend who wanted a copy of Teaching from the Tap suggested we meet up at the Bistro’s IPA Festival. Getting another copy of Merideth’s book out into the world and a hophead’s dream day sounded like a win-win situation to me. Relaxation could wait until Sunday.

Hoppy, hoppy beer…

This was our first IPA Festival. But having been to their Double IPA festival on several occasions, we already had our routine set. Preferring the early bird schedule, we arrived at opening time, joining a handful of people on the enclosed street-side pen that housed the gathering. Our plan was for a few hours of fun, leaving mid afternoon when the crowd swelled.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention what a team player Merideth was. Not being a huge IPA fan, she volunteered to be the designated driver for the day allowing me to indulge in all the hoppy goodness. I will sure return the favor when we go to a festival that I don’t care for the style.

A lot of work to do…

All the familiar hops (and some unfamiliar) were represented in the over three score beers pouring. Amarillo, cascade, chinook, citra, columbus, nugget, simcoe, and warrior were a few of the hop varieties that made this a very popular day on the Bay Area beer calendar. Not expecting to try them all, if my check marks were accurate, I did manage to drink fully about a third, or 20 of hoppy elixirs.

Despite the beers being all IPAs, there was a wide variety of flavors represented, from floral to piney to citrus.

A very happy hophead…

According to my notes, where checkmarks became stars for brews I liked, my favorites were:

  • Drake’s Aroma Coma IPA
  • Fat Heads Head Hunter IPA
  • Russian River Hopfather IPA
  • Sante Adairius 831 IPA
  • Sierra Nevada Floral IPA
  • Triple Rock Greenhorn

I must really like the ‘C’ hops with Cascade, Citra, Centennial, and Columbus making numerous appearances in the brews listed.

In the official judging, Fat Heads Head Hunter IPA took home its second Bistro gold medal. Silver and bronze went to Ballast Point’s Sculpin followed by Triple Rock’s Greenhorn. The People’s Choice award went to the beer I voted for, Drake’s Aroma Coma.

Another great day at the Bistro…

View all the images from our day at the Bistro…

Last Day in Vancouver, eh

Over our week in British Columbia, Merideth and I explored the beer scene from breezy Vancouver Island to snow-capped Whistler to bustling Vancouver. With a baker’s dozen of new breweries already added to the List, we had one more day to finish things up before family time began.

Central City Brewing in Surrey, home of Red Racer

We began our day in the Vancouver suburb of Surrey at the glass-enclosed, modern Central City Brewing. This was a much anticipated stop as Central City has won a number of beer awards, most recently being named “Best Brewery” at the Canadian Brewing Awards a few weeks prior.

The brewery was also well-known for losing a legal dispute with Healdburg’s Bear Republic Brewing over its Red Racer brand. Too closely resembling in name Bear Republic’s iconic Racer 5 and Red Rocket beers, Central City brews distributed in the States now go by the moniker Red Betty. Red whatever, I was anxious to try the beers.

Beer and a Euro 2012 semifinal

The lunchtime crowd was mainly gathered to watch the European Football Championship semifinal between Germany and Italy. Used to being amongst other German fans, Merideth and I found ourselves in a bar full of blue-shirted Azzurri supporters. Locating some open seats on a deserted corner of the bar, we ordered a sample flight.

Lunch at Central City

The dozen brew flight was the most diverse since the similar-sized selection we sampled at Howe Sound earlier in the week. Ranging from a light-colored, Bavarian-style Lager to an ink-black, smokey Stout, we tasted some of the best beers of our Canadian trip. In between, we tried a Pale Ale, Raspberry Wheat, Wheat, and smoked beer to name a few.

Merideth was sold on the crisp lager when she heard the words “Bavarian-style”. I was most impressed by both the Canadian Brewing Awards gold medal winners, Red Racer ESB and Central City Imperial IPA. Their assertive, floral bitterness contrasted sharply with the unpleasant bitterness I felt with Germany losing 2-0 to Italy.

I would be remiss not to mention the wonderful food. The Red Racer IPA Bangers and Mash paired nicely with a pint of the Red Racer IPA.

The highlight of Gastown

On a rainy evening, we took the Sky Train from our airport hotel into central Vancouver.
Walking through Gastown, we marveled with a multitude of other tourists at the steam-powered clock, a Vancouver landmark since 1977. Passing the Steamworks brewpub, which Merideth and I visited in 1998, we gave each other the puzzled “that doesn’t look familiar at all” look. But it’s on The List, so we knew we had, in fact, been there.

On the far edge of Gastown almost back in East Vancouver, Merideth and I reached our final beer stop of the Canada trip, the Alibi Room.

The Alibi Room

Over the course of our journey, we were told a number of times, we HAD to visit the Alibi Room. Peering into its arched windows as we walked past, the Alibi Room’s popularity was confirmed by the large number of beer drinkers filling its long communal tables.

I somewhat panicked, worrying that we came all this way to have a long waiting list or no place to sit. Much to my relief, we were able to grab a corner of one of the high tables in front of the bar. (We later discovered there was a downstairs. While less spacious, the basement was complete with bar and duplicate set of taps.) As numerous customers came and went, Merideth and I settled in for our trip swan song.

Some of the taps at the Alibi Room

Over the course of our trip, we had been introduced to the wide variety of local beer. Now, it was all here in front of us one more time to enjoy. Though they had a few beers from the States on their 44 taps and three hand pumps, British Columbian beer was front and center at the Alibi Room.

I already knew I was going to start with the R & B ESB on cask, a beer even more delightful than the keg version I tried the previous day at the brewery. The soft carbonation really brought out the hoppiness of the brew.

Merideth enjoying a Saison at the Alibi Room

Merideth went with Driftwood Farmhand Ale, a 5.5% ABV version of a Saison. Black pepper gave the brew an extra layer of spiciness. After I tasted the Saison, I again regretted that we didn’t get to visit the brewery during our stay in Victoria.

While Merideth stuck with the Saison throughout the evening, my next (and next) beer was Driftwood’s Fat Tug IPA, maybe my favorite brew of the week-long trip.

The Alibi Room was a perfect way to end the trip. With its wide selection of local beer, we were reminded of the strength of BC’s beer scene.

View all the Vancouver images…

The East Side

Early next morning, Chris and I left the shadows of The Chief and headed for Vancouver. While most tourists visiting Canada’s third largest city beeline to Granville Island, Yaletown, Gastown, or Stanley Park, we were destined for the gritty, industrial East side, the epicenter of Vancouver’s growing beer culture.

Chris estimated the drive to be just under an hour. What wasn’t accounted for, however, was the blood pressure enhancing experience that is Vancouver traffic. After inching our way through several extremely inconvenient construction zones, we finally arrived at our first stop of the day: R & B Brewing Co.

Merideth at R & B Brewing

Located in East Vancouver (called East Van or the East Side by locals), R & B Brewing doesn’t usually provide tours. But Barry Benson (the ‘B’ of the operation) chuckled as he told us that Chris must have caught him on a good day when he agreed to meet with us. We ended up “rescuing” him from paperwork when we arrived, so in the end everyone was happy. Barry was a fun and gracious host as we dodged the usual hoses, puddles of water, and brewers as we made our way around the brewery.

Barry offered us healthy samples of their award-winning beers. All of the brews, including the Bohemian Lager, Hoppelganger IPA and the Red Devil Pale Ale, were fantastic but Chris’ favorite was the East Side Bitter. An aggressively hopped Pacific Northwest version of the the traditional style, Chris was overjoyed when Barry advised us to check out the nearby Alibi Room, where he could have East Side Bitter on cask.

Chris and Barry

When our hour-long visit came to a close, Barry wished us luck at our next stop: Storm Brewing Ltd. We didn’t understand why Barry would say that until we stepped into Storm Brewing and met the owner/brewer James Walton.

James sported bleach blond, spiky hair, a tight purple t-shirt and black platform shoes with springs in them; an outfit more expected at the club than a brewery. Up on a short ladder when we came in, I think the first words out of his mouth were “This fucking glycol system isn’t working and I’m trying to fix it.” This was the beginning of a colorful time at Storm and I think it’s safe to say that it was the most interesting brewery visit we’ve ever had!

The taps at Storm Brewing

James offered us a Basil IPA. Even though he admitted it was old and wasn’t sure how it would taste, it was quite good. The spiciness of the basil was a perfect complement to the hops.

He bounced around the brewery (probably from the spring-filled shoes) alternately fiddling with the glycol system, stirring his brew, answering the phone and stopping momentarily to chat with us or the other visitors. In the meantime, we simply wandered around checking out all the interesting “stuff” he has around the metal shop/mad scientist’s lab/brewery.

Before we left, he also offered us a whiff of a cardamon tincture he made for possible use in an upcoming brew and a taste of one of his renowned sours. One of the tartest beers we have ever tried, Chris said it reminded him of the recently released Russian River Beatification.

word…

Don’t let James’ unique (and dare I say eccentric) approach to owning/operating a brewery fool you, the beers were amazingly different and tasty.

Continuing our beer tour of East Van, we moved from the old guard to the new. A few blocks from Storm Brewing, Parallel 49 had opened a few weeks earlier. Or so Chris thought. Finding the address, we peered into the darkened, not-yet-finished tasting room. Disappointed, we continued on to the next block over to visit the East Side’s other new brewery, Coal Harbour Brewing Company.

Their brewmaster, Kevin Emms, was nice enough to receive us even though we didn’t make arrangements ahead of time. (He said that we must be Americans because Canadians don’t just pop in). As he showed us around the modest facility, Kevin remarked several times that Coal Harbour is an operation working on a shoestring budget. Apologies weren’t necessary, however, as Coal Harbour is a place where hard working folks are making great craft beer.

Coal Harbor Brewing Company

We tasted one brew, Smoke & Mirrors, an 8.5% ABV smoked Imperial Ale. The rich color and smoked aroma were not completely lost on me, even though the style is far from the top of my list of favorites. The flavor was very smoke-forward and I’m sure that those who like Rauchbiers would enjoy this one.

Their standard lineup includes a Helles, Vienna Lager, Rye beer and a gold medal winning IPA and all are available at the local bottle shop. Kevin was unable to sell us bottles and unfortunately we didn’t have time to pick some up before we left the city. Shoestring budget or not, Coal Harbour’s beers are well worth checking out.

As we were leaving Coal Harbour, Kevin asked whether we were visiting Parallel 49. Chris explained that we had walked by and saw the not-yet-completed tasting room so assumed we couldn’t visit. Kevin replied, “just walk around the back…”

Trying beers in Parallel 49’s soon-to-be-finished tasting room

A larger brewery than Coal Harbour, we were surprised to learn that Parallel 49 had been up and running for only a few months. The brewer, Graham With, showed us around and talked with us about the Vancouver beer scene.

He then took us to the tap room that we had peered into earlier to taste some beer. Chris liked the Hoparazzi, a 6% ABV Golden Lager given the West Coast IPA treatment. Coming in at a respectable 50 IBUs, Hoparazzi had wonderful citrus notes.

The most surprising of the brews was the Seedspitter, a watermelon Belgian wit. It was crisp and refreshing with a subtle watermelon flavor; perfect for the summer season. We joked with him about serving it with a slice of watermelon on the side, just like our friends at 21st Amendment. He politely said that they wouldn’t be serving it that way, but the bars probably would be. Once it’s open, the tap room will be a comfortable spot to sample Parallel 49’s beer.

And that concluded our beer tour of East Van. Some call the area “gritty.” But given the proximity of the breweries to each other, we agreed with one of the brewers who called it “brewer’s alley.” In any case, it was a fun day out and a great introduction to the colorful side of the Vancouver beer scene.

View all the Vancouver images…

Whistler & Squamish

While Merideth and I felt we could spend the rest of our trip traveling around Vancouver Island, it was time for us to move over to the mainland. There were more breweries to visit and more of the British Columbia beer scene to explore.

Ferry dwarfed by the mountains

We left the aptly named Departure Bay early Monday morning destined for the Lower Mainland. It was a beautiful, sunny day. With the gorgeous weather, Merideth and I enjoyed crossing of the Straight of Georgia from the upper deck. With the backdrop of the massive mainland coastal mountains, the scenery was spectacular. I almost wished we could do it all over again, but we disembarked at Horseshoe Bay and journeyed north.

View all the ferry crossing images…

The rings in Whistler Village…

Our first destination of the day was Whistler, the famous ski resort known most recently for hosting events during the 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics. Even in summer, the semi-posh Whistler Village teamed with tourists and outdoor-types strolling its quaint pedestrian zone. Not being skiers, Merideth and I took it all in with a bit of curiosity.

Merideth enjoying a pre-hike beer at the Brew House in Whistler

Normally, we would set out for a hike first, but Merideth was hungry. Instead, we wound our way to the far end of Whistler Village destined for High Mountain Brewing. Under a brilliant sun and snow-capped peaks, we settled into one of the outdoor high bar tables.

Starting with the light-bodied Lifty Lager and ending with the seasonal Imperial Stout, Merideth and I sampled the brews in the six beer flight. All the beers were very drinkable, with the Alta Lake Amber Ale and 5 Rings IPA being the favorites for Merideth and I respectively.

Alta Lake

The network of hiking/biking trails around Whistler was quite impressive. Wanting to set out from the Village, we settled on a 7-8km loop around Alta Lake. Our hike was more of a long walk on paved paths around the lake, but Merideth and I enjoyed the exercise and being out in the sun.

Post hike, we had another quick beer at the Brewhouse before heading back down the mountain to Squamish.

View all the Whistler images…

Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Co.

Squamish billed itself as the “outdoor recreational capital of Canada.” Merideth and I were oblivious of this claim to fame as we exited off Hwy 99 at Cleveland Avenue, the town’s main drag. Squamish was our destination because of Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company. The seventh brewery of the trip was also our hotel for the night.

The dozen beer sampler at Howe Sound

Checking into the hotel, we quickly dropped off our bags and headed back downstairs to the pub.

There is no better reward for staying at a brewery hotel than a dozen brew-flight. Merideth immediately fell in love with 4 Way Fruit Ale, a Wheat Beer made with mango, passion fruit, raspberry and pomegranate. Light-bodied and full of fruit flavor, 4 Way tasted exactly like a breakfast juice.

A finished dozen beer sampler…

Merideth’s other favorite and go to beer during our stay at Howe Sound was Rail Ale Nut Brown. A silver medal winner at the 2012 North American Beer Awards, the brew had the nice nutty flavor that she enjoys. My stars were Devil’s Elbow IPA and Baldwin Cooper Best Bitter, a bronze medal winner at the 2012 North American Beer Awards.

Merideth and I were both fond of Megadestroyer, an Imperial Licorice Stout. Maybe an ‘acquired taste’ brew, this 10% ABV full-bodied Stout had, as the name would suggest, a wonderful licorice flavor.

The Chief

Sitting in the pub, we couldn’t help notice the huge granite monolith that looms over Squamish. Known at the Stawamus Chief, the huge rock face towers 2,300 ft. over the town. Merideth and I joked that we would climb the face before we left.

Later, we learned from our friendly waitress that there was a hiking trail to the top that offered amazing views of Howe Sound and the surrounding mountains. Inspired, we vowed to get to the top of the Chief the next day.

Trail maintenance? Today?

The following morning we awoke psyched up to conquer the Chief. Doing some trail research online before we left, I saw a notice on the BC Parks website that the trail to the top of the Chief was closed for maintenance that very day (and only that day). Not really believing our unlucky fortune, we drove to the trail head to confirm that it was true.

Extremely disappointed, Merideth and I settled on another 7-8km hike at Alice Lake Park that wound around four different lakes. A bit more remote than our Whistler hike, the ‘Danger bear in the area’ warning added a bit of excitement. But, we still weren’t climbing the Chief.

Back at Howe Sound and again under the gaze of the Chief, Merideth and I lamented our missed hiking opportunity over a few pints. In the end, we re-framed our day. We didn’t conquer the Chief, but that just means we need to return to Squamish.

View all the Squamish images…