As fellow beer geeks, I trust that you all ushered in the new year in a very beery way. We were lucky enough to ring in the new year at the Big Sur River Inn after feasting on a wonderful 5-course beer dinner. A successful inaugural beer dinner in November inspired the River Inn to do it again. The New Year’s Eve feast started off with grilled shrimp on a pineapple plank paired with Bear Republic’s Red Rocket. It only got better from there, as attendees dined on such tasty treats as spicy chicken wings with Sierra Nevada Celebration, bacon-wrapped scallops with Rodenbach Grand Cru, and top sirloin with Chimay Red. The night finished off with a jubilant “champagne” toast at midnight with Malheur Brut Reserve. The River Inn staff is enthusiastic about more beer dinners to come, so I hope we see you there sometime in 2011!
Needless to say, the morning after our night at the Mikkeller Bar in Copenhagen was probably the roughest of the whole trip. The day before, we had great plans for our second day, doing all the touristy things available to visitors of Copenhagen. Unfortunately, we got a late start. We blame the Mikkeller Bar.
The Carlsberg elephants
We did manage to figure out the trains and even survived the short ride out to visit the Jacobsen Brewhouse at the Carlsberg Visitor’s Center. When we got off the train, a large building with ‘Carlsberg’ on it was readily visible and just a few blocks away. “Cool! That was easy,” we thought. Well, the Carlsberg compound is a large place and while we were close to the visitor’s center as the crow flies, to get there we had to go all the way around. Other people seemed to be having an equally challenging time finding it. We did see the humongous elephants along the way, though, which I admit was pretty cool.
The Jacobsen line of brews...
After a frustrating 45 minutes, we finally found it. (We discovered later that by approaching the complex from Valby Langgade by bus, signs clearly mark the 5-minute walk to the center.) The Jacobsen Brewhouse is a line of beers that Carlsberg says are an “expression of our ambitious plans for the development and marketing of uncompromising specialty beers and serves as a living embodiment of Carlsberg’s cultural history.” The brewhouse is located in the heart of the visitor’s center.
Jacobsen's Saaz Blonde
Seeing that we got a late start and it took so long for us to find the place, we only had time to try one beer, the Saaz Blonde. Chris thought the beer was on the sweet side, more like a Belgian Blonde. I found it reasonably acceptable. We added Jacobsen to The List and headed back out. (In hind sight, we should have added Carlsberg as well because it’s brewed on the premises on a separate system. However, we didn’t have a Carlsberg while there, so we can’t count it on The List now.)
The scenery on our walk...
We decided that a long walk from the Carlsberg Visitor’s Center/Jacobsen Brewhouse to the next brewery, Nørrebro, would clear the cobwebs out of our Mikkeller Bar head. So, an hour later, we arrived there ready for more beer and a spot of lunch. Chris had decided before we left that he would try herring, a Danish delicacy. At Nørrebro he had his chance – and took it.
Nørrebro's IKEA-like decor
Nørrebro is set-up on two floors with a keller-like drinking space and brewery downstairs and a dining room upstairs. The dining room is furnished in classic Danish furniture that Chris thought looked like an Ikea catalog. We were lucky enough to be seated at a table with a clear view down into the brewery. Though the only action happening down there was cleaning.
Among the beers we tried were the Çeske Böhmer, a Czech Pilsner, and a high alcohol (imperial?) porter conditioned in Cabernet barrels. To go with his trio of herring, Chris drank the Bombay Pale Ale, an IPA.
Chris' yummy herring lunch...
For his herring adventure, Chris tried the first style on his plate, which was in some sort of white, creamy sauce. Taking a small bite, he made a face and remarked that it was “very fishy” and “a weird texture.” He moved on to the second style, red herring served with capers. He managed more or less with that one until he took too big of a bite. He very nearly threw up on the table and thereafter lost the stomach to try the third style, which was pan fried. I gotta hand it to him, he gave it a go. He’s definitely braver than me! The decent-length walk back to the hotel, helped Chris regain his composure and feel better.
After a short break at the hotel, Chris and I ventured to our next brewery. We took this visit with a grain of salt because all the reviews clearly stated that Færgekroen Bryghus (located inside Tivoli) was not worth visiting. However, we like to try places for ourselves rather than completely depend on the reviews of others. Plus, we’re what Evan Rail calls “completists.” We must make every effort to get to every brewery in the area. It was unfathomable to pass on a brewery so near our hotel just because of poor reviews.
Smiling Merideth is quite the professional...
So we paid our entrance fee to Tivoli and wandered through the theme restaurants, candy kiosks, and trinket shops to find Færgekroen on the far side of the park. The restaurant is located by the side of a lake and the deck where we sat (covered and heated for the winter) offered a nice view of the sparkling Christmas lights. We ate a quick bite and tried their Blonde. The place was full and the service good. Færgekroen was added to The List and we left for one last visit to the Mikkeller Bar.
Thankfully a quiet evening at the Mikkeller Bar
Except for a going away party in the corner, the Mikkeller Bar was not as busy as the night before, which bode well for us to actually make a short night of it. Jannik had hoped to get a Mikkeller beer on that had been conditioned in Cognac barrels. Unfortunately, the bartender relayed a message from Jannik apologizing that he was unable to access the warehouse to get it. I thought it was incredibly hospitable that Jannik made the effort and even remembered to get the message to us.
Our second go at the Mikkeller Bar was actually as short a visit as we intended it to be. We had tried most of the beers the night before, so we tried a few others and called it a night. Next stop: Amsterdam.
Sometimes even I’m surprised at the lengths we’ll go to get a brewery added to The List. But with a goal of hitting brewery #600 well within sight, every effort to make additions had to be made on this trip. Our excursion further north to Denmark was one of those extra efforts.
Chilly Copenhagen
People have suggested to us for a while that we try Danish beer, so Chris decided to tag it onto this year’s European Christmas vacation. But come on, who goes to Denmark in December? It’s colder than a witch’s you know what, it gets dark early and it’s guaranteed to clean out your wallet. So again, who goes to Denmark in December? Well, we do.
We arrived in Copenhagen in the afternoon and the sky was still bright and sunny. The cold, around 20º F, was also there ready to turn our cheeks rosy and our extremities numb. Luckily, we were prepared for that.
Our hotel was conveniently located near the Rådhuspladsen, close to both the central train station and several of the breweries on our itinerary. We wasted no time dropping off our bags before heading back out to add another brewery to The List.
The Black Santa Christmas Stout at Apollo
Around the corner next to Tivoli, Copenhagen’s famous amusement park, was Bryggeriet Apollo. It was our first outing in Denmark and our first go at the Danish language. We were a little nervous, but they spoke English, which made it a lot easier to order. (Did you know that there is no word for ‘please’ in Danish?) Seated in the front atrium near the shiny copper kettles, we started with the Pilsner. Initially, it seemed to be their only beer. However, we soon discovered that they also had a Christmas beer (Jule bryg) and an IPA, as well as Black Santa Christmas Stout. With its roasted toffee flavor, the stout was the standout for us. We ended our lunch with a tasty traditional Danish dessert, rice pudding with warm cherry sauce. We left feeling more confident about our ability to get around the language issue.
The happy beer travelers at Vesterbro Bryghus
Undaunted by the dipping temperature, we bundled up to walk across the street to Vesterbro Bryghus. This place was not as readily spotted as Apollo had been, but we did find it. (Look for the brewery signs on the window of the pub Strecker.) The tall, young blond behind the bar served us samples of their Blonde, Amber, and a Jule Bryg. She also tried to give us the Tuborg Christmas beer, but we politely declined the holiday macro-brew. She was very friendly and we enjoyed ourselves as she spoke of the rivalry between the Swedes and Danes, something akin to the good natured antagonizing between Americans and Canadians. We weren’t charged for the sampler set, but we did pay $22 for our two half liters of the Amber. Chris didn’t mind, he had spent time with a real live Danish girl.
By this time, the sky was dusky and a few snow flurries grazed our faces, but the beer was starting to kick in, so we felt fairly warm inside. We ventured further away from our hotel to the other side of the Rådhuspladsen.
Over there we found Brewpub København. Chris joked about sitting outside. The courtyard was spacious and quite nice looking, but that would not have safeguarded me against the nippy air, so sitting out there was out of the question. Chris followed me down the stairs into the warm and inviting pub.
The taster set at Brewpub København
Brewpub København offered a wide selection of beers, including Red Christmas (a smoky tasting ESB), Brewster (a pale ale), and The Brewfather (a 5.6% Czech lager). Several of the menu items were made with beer and I was especially intrigued by the traditional Danish open sandwich with scrambled “hopped” eggs. The bartender confirmed that Amarillo hops were somehow incorporated into the eggs. However, he warned me that the hop flavor was barely noticeable. He was right, but I enjoyed my egg sandwich, none the less. Chris’ favorite at Brewpub was the Cole Porter. While this beer is sometimes served on cask, he drank a half liter from the taps.
We continued with a short walk to Charlie’s Bar on Pilestræde. The walk probably would have been a bit quicker if it wasn’t for the hordes of holiday shoppers. It reminded us of Grafton Street in Dublin during the holidays with little space to move around and many an “Excuse me” being uttered. Charlie’s is not a brewpub or a place to necessarily try Danish beers. But, if you’re looking for a great beer selection, including properly served real ale, then this is your place.
Real Ale and a cozy atmosphere at Charlie's Bar
We stepped through the narrow front door, which was none too easy in my big winter coat. The tightly packed tables were closely spaced and tricky to navigate without hitting someone in the head. No one seemed to mind, though, as we made our way to the only available spot at the corner of the bar. The pub was nicely decorated with wonderfully smelling pine garlands draping across the ceiling. (Upon a second visit, I realized they were fake and probably just sprayed with Pine-Sol to give that fresh pine forest fragrance.) The ceiling and walls were covered from top to bottom in handpump clips, beer signs, and other breweriana.
Give me warmth...
The Englishman behind the bar served real ale from 6 different handpumps, plus a variety of lagers, ales, and ciders. Chris and I settled in to get warmed up with our beers, a Westmalle Dubbel and Schneider Aventinus. Charlie’s doesn’t serve food, but welcome you to bring in your own. They do have board games available, though, for a 50 Danish Kroner deposit, as well as free WiFi with beer purchase (ask for the password). Be sure to hit the toilets, as right next to them is the windowed cellar where the casks are clearly visible.
Charlie’s was a quick stop because we had another, much anticipated place to go: the Mikkeller Bar. Back across the Rådhuspladsen we went, passing the beautiful, enormous (and real) Christmas tree, our hotel, Vesterbro, Apollo and Tivoli.
A tiny neighborhood establishment
Turning left down Viktoriagade off Vesterbrogade (a major street), it looked like a quiet residential neighborhood. However, looking down at cellar level, we saw several establishments conducting their business and one of them was the Mikkeller Bar. There is no awning or major sign at the Mikkeller Bar, but the lettering on the door and a view of tap handles confirms you’ve found it.
The place was fairly full when we arrived, so we first chose a small nook tucked toward the back. We were looking to be a bit more social than that, though, so we changed our minds and made our way back through the front room to a side room. The sparsely decorated pub, with its white walls and a gray cement floor, reminded me of a modern art museum. Candles and bare light bulbs hanging from the ceiling created a calming, if not slightly spooky, soft lighting.
The start of a long night at Mikkeller
Chris ordered us some beers and we established ourselves at a table. In the meantime, a few employees opened the cellar door that was only 60 ft away. Chris took the opportunity to look inside and discretely take some photos. Seeing Chris’ obvious interest in beer, the establishment’s manager, Jannik, invited him to step inside to get a better view.
Mikkeller's beer cellar was full of the usual suspects
Two large shelves that ran the length of the room held hundreds of bottles. Several vintages of Mikkeller’s own Santa’s Little helper, various brews from Port, Ale Smith, and Cantillion to name a few. Chris’ beer geekiness started an incredible evening of beer, snacks, and good conversation with both staff and regulars. I even got to hold their empty bottle of BrewDog’s the End of History. I will say that holding a bottle-stuffed, tuxedo wearing stoat was every bit as gross as I thought it would be.
yummmmmm....
We spent a few hours there and drank what seemed like an endless stream of beer (served in 25cl glasses). Plus we ate several orders of cheese, sausage, and nuts. In the end, I was shocked to find that the bill was about the same as it had been for lunch. The Mikkeller bar was the best bargain and entertainment we found in Copenhagen.
The Mikkeller Bar seemed to put things into perspective for me. It was warm and inviting with great beer and friendly people. It didn’t matter that it was dark out (okay, it was nighttime by then), as that actually made the candle-lit atmosphere even more appealing. Plus, with the beer, food, and hours of fun we had, it felt like a darn good bargain. Maybe we hadn’t really made any sort of sacrifice at all. Maybe Denmark in December wasn’t the longest length we’ve gone, but it was pretty close.
For many people birthday wishes include sleeping in, spa treatments, and having friends and family wait on them hand and foot. I guess I wish for that, too, but my birthday doesn’t usually turn out that way. And I’m okay with that.
The last few years I have been whisked away to great beer places on my birthday, including Belgium, Australia (via San Francisco), and Ireland. Admittedly, however, this year started with a bit of grumbling.
We arrived in London the day before my birthday then proceeded to spend the afternoon and night drinking beer. With only a few hours sleep, Chris and I were on a train to Heathrow at 6:30am the next morning; not exactly the leisurely morning of birthday wishes. I was tired and cranky, but the complaining stopped when we reached Dublin city center later that day.
Pork belly at Bull and Castle
My first birthday treat was a pork belly lunch at the Bull and Castle near Christ Church. One of Dublin’s first craft beer bars, we’ve been going there for a number of years. They have a good selection of American craft beer (the bartender recognized my Speakeasy sweatshirt from the eyes on the back), but of course, I didn’t travel to Ireland to drink American beer.
The birthday girl and her Galway Hooker
I enjoyed a Galway Hooker from Roscommon to start, but eventually moved on to Buckley’s Golden Ale, a beer brewed by Carlow Brewing especially for Bull and Castle. Chris was happy to try Black Rock Irish Stout from Dungarvan Brewing for the first time and loved it. Dungarvan opened in April of this year to rave reviews and continues to do well in the still growing Irish craft beer market. However, Black Rock’s smoky flavor was a little out of my taste, so I ended my lunch with the tried and true O’Hara’s Irish Stout from Carlow Brewing.
The birthday girl at Against the Grain
Our friend John (aka thebeernut) told us about another great beer bar, Against The Grain, that opened a few months ago. Not too far from Bull and Castle, we braved the icy sidewalks to get there. When we found it, we weren’t sure the corner pub was open, but fortunately it was. The quiet pub was a lot brighter inside than it first appeared. It’s quiet and mellow (there are no TV’s or blaring music) and they have a stack of board games for patrons to play. It was the perfect place to continue recovering from my jet lag and lack of sleep to get more into the birthday spirit.
The Belfast Blonde, a clean and refreshing 4.3% pale ale, from College Green in Belfast, was my beer choice at Against The Grain, while Chris drank a Galway Hooker. Despite confusion about the pub being open (while we sat at the bar a pair of guys came and went thinking it was closed), the staff was friendly and so were the other few customers seated near us. If you’re looking for Irish craft beer in a pub off the beaten track, this is the place.
Some of the beer available at L Mulligan Grocer
We then made a quick stop at the Porterhouse in Temple Bar, so Chris could get his Wrassler’s 4X before ending my birthday night at L. Mulligan Grocer in Stoneybatter. This “eating and drinking emporium” opened in July 2010 and serves an amazing food selection along with Irish craft beer.
At the back of the long and narrow bar area is the warm and cozy main dining room. Each of the thick wooded tables had a ‘reserved’ sign made of Scrabble tiles, which made it all the more endearing to me and Chris. One of the waitstaff seated us at a table for 10, which confused me at first. As our friends trickled in, it became clear that Chris had something special in mind for me. He also had something special in mind for the people who so generously came out to celebrate my birthday, a California beer tasting.
The California beers were indeed enjoyed by our table, but I stuck with Trouble Brewing’s Ór, a refreshing golden ale. The food at our table was amazing. From the parsnip and chestnut soup and the potted crab to the turkey and ham roulade and fish special, everything was cooked to perfection. Conversation was never lacking, as we were all jolly and the Irish gift of gab was alive and well. The only thing that quieted us down was the dessert, a chocolate cake made with Trouble Brewing’s latest brew, a porter called Dark Arts. Crunchy on the back edge, moist inside, and topped with a cream cheese frosting, it was one of the best birthday cakes I’ve ever had! Plus, made with beer, it was a girl beer geek’s birthday dream.
The moral of the story? Birthday wishes come in all shapes and sizes. While my birthday started in an early, harried, and extremely tired state, I wouldn’t trade it for the world. Early departures can be unsavory and difficult prospects during vacations, but I didn’t come all this way to stay in my hotel room. It was a magical and fun-filled day and we wouldn’t have gotten in nearly as much as we did if it wasn’t for Chris seeing the bigger picture during the planning stages of the trip. Go raibh maith agat to all who made my birthday wonderful!
Thursday’s early morning wake up followed by a beer-filled day and a late night bedtime made for a rough Friday morning. With less demanding trips lately, Chris and I felt a little out of practice, but being the professionals we are, we ignored the aches in our heads and set out on Friday with excitement in our hearts.
Chris and Matt at Flossmoor Station
We climbed into the back of Matt and Michelle’s Xterra and hit the road toward the most anticipated visit of the trip: Three Floyds in Munster, Indiana. Along the way, we stopped at Flossmoor Station Restaurant and Brewery in the historic town of Flossmoor, Illinois. As you probably already guessed, it’s located in the old train station right next to the modern day Metra rail tracks.
The taster set at Flossmoor
We all vowed to improve our skills of beer moderation on Friday, which included reducing (slightly) our beer intake, increasing our water intake, and remembering to eat. With this in mind, we took it easy at our first stop of the day. We watched the model train circle the bar on a track high on the wall as we enjoyed our 10-beer taster set. I found their Zephyr Golden Ale to be the perfect hair of the dog beer to get me going. They also offered several fruit beers, Roundhouse Raspberry and Chessie Cherry Wheat, which were interesting.
We hit the road again, but promptly got sidetracked. Barley and Hops Liquors drew us in with their advertisement of craft beer. Matt made a left turn across the busy road to go and see what filled their shelves. Chris mused that the place sold numerous California beers that we don’t get in our beer backwater. But we didn’t go all the way to Illinois to buy California beer, so we filled our bag with bottles of Bell’s, Founders, and Two Brothers.
Three Floyds
Our momentum was growing as we got closer to Three Floyds. When we arrived, Matt and Michelle were surprised to see how much the place had grown since their last visit. Located in a quiet industrial park, the brewpub is set back from the street. The sign on the building projected a firey character and should have tipped me off to the attitude inside.
Punk music blasted us as soon as we opened the door. The loud music and hardcore atmosphere drowned out the jackhammer in my head, which was good, but also a little overwhelming while on the upswing of recovery from Thursday night.
Chris enjoying a pint of Alpha King at Three Floyds
Chris joked that he was going to ask for Dark Lord. Their Imperial Stout, Dark Lord is only sold one day a year on Dark Lord Day. A very hyped event, Dark Lord Day had happened a couple of weeks previous. I was relieved that he didn’t because I had no desire to look like a dork. Hey, I may be a beer geek, but I’m no dork. Chris ordered a taster set, which gave me the chance to find a less extreme beer that wouldn’t offend my delicate palate. I chose a pint of Pride and Joy, a beer Three Floyds characterizes as an American Mild. Chris and Matt got a kick out of Marketing Ploy, a collaborative pale ale brewed with Jonathon Cutler of Piece Brewery, so they both ordered one. I guess the brewery thought one marketing ploy just wasn’t enough.
Take your appetite because they have a great food menu. And don’t forget your protective ear wear if you’re a little sensitive that way. While we ate our lunch a woman in her 60s asked us about our filming. She was very sweet and chatty, so Chris asked her what she thought of the brewery. She thought it was pretty good, except for the music. Apparently the lunch was her 46th wedding anniversary present from her husband, who stood nearby as she talked with us. She was a hoot to talk with and a real trooper. Maybe next year her husband will throw in some diamond studded earplugs.
After a quick stop to add a notch on the brewery bedpost, we returned the car to the hotel and went right back out to hit the town. We all enjoyed Piece from the night before and Chris needed more footage for beergeek.TV, so with no argument from any of us, we made a return visit. We arrived earlier than the night before, but being a Friday, the place was filling up quickly. I was happy to have another chance to try their Swinging Single, a Belgian-style single, which I didn’t try the night before. It was fantastic! Not to spoil it, since there’s still one more blog of the trip to go, but Piece was by far my favorite brewpub in Chicago.
Moonshine Brewing
Before we knew it, we were off in search of the next brewery on our Friday night tour, Moonshine Brewery in the Wicker Park neighborhood. I’ll admit that I was dragging a bit at this point, but I figured if a 60-something year old woman could manage Three Floyds, I could surely manage Moonshine. To do anything else would have compromised my beer professionalism.
Moonshine’s “urban roadhouse” decor was fun and interesting. The wooden interior and the mason jar glasses made me feel like I was in a cabin in the woods hiding out while my distillery cranked out some rot gut. All I needed was a shotgun. The bartender was very nice as he served us a taster set of beer in tiny jars. He even turned Michelle onto a new iPhone app, Dragon. We were offered a blind taste test of Dewar’s by a nicely dressed woman, but much to her disappointment, the four of us declined.
The Publican
We departed Moonshine in a cab and headed to yet another highly anticipated visit: The Publican. We planned to have dinner there, but that plan was thwarted by the hour and a half wait. And that time frame was only if some reservations failed to show. I felt like a dog waiting for someone to throw me a bone.
The situation was a huge disappointment to me because I was hungry and about to get very cranky. But we figured what the hell and added our name to the wait list. The hostess then kindly dropped us and a beer list off at a standing only table in the bar area. I liked the idea that she “sat” us in the bar and we didn’t have to hunt for a spot.
The Publican’s famous house-made pork rinds
The beer choices at The Publican didn’t leave much to desire, as they had an extensive variety of excellent beers. I started with a Goose Island Matilda, while Chris had an Alpha King, Matt the Hercule Stout from Belgium and Michelle the Three Floyds Pride and Joy.
I was also quite pleased to learn that we could order food where we stood. Everyone had raved about the housemade spicy pork rinds, so of course I had to have some. They were every bit as good as people said and they melted in my mouth. I will admit, however, that the powdered cheddar cheese sprinkled on top was a little odd. Each time I took a bite, the cheese flew all over the table and even into my beer. We also ordered a plate of selected ham, which we gobbled down.
Besides the need for reservations, the other tip I will offer about The Publican is that it is a little on the dressier side. And by dressier I mean fashionable. Our group, outfitted in jeans (except Chris who was in shorts) and beer shirts, stood out as not like the others.
The happy beer travelers at Revolution Brewing
We decided to cut our losses at The Publican and bail before we could be disappointed. Since Matt and Michelle had not made it to Revolution Brewing with us the night before, we gladly agreed to return and eat there. We entered to find a busy place and up to an hour wait, which was once again disappointing. I forgot that we were in the big city now where popular places fill up and not the beer backwater of home where there’s always a seat in the house. We did learn, however, that we could sit in the waiting area where we could order both beer and food from a waiter. That was just fine with us. With long benches and a few beer barrel tables, it turned out to be a very comfortable alternative to waiting for a table.
I drank a Bottom Up Belgian Wit with a grilled tofu sandwich. Chris liked the Anti-hero IPA the night before, so he ordered another one to go with his pulled pork sandwich. Matt and Michelle each opted for the Let’s Have a War Belgian-style strong pale ale to go with their pizza. Even though it was loud, Revolution was a nice way to end our second day in Chicago.
It had been another long day, but the four of us pressed on in the name of beer travel. It was an ambitious beer schedule, but it can be done. So, if you decide to take a similar journey in the Windy City, just remember that we would never lead you astray. Trust us, we’re professionals.
